阅读说明：本技术 羊绒纬弹面料的生产方法 (Production method of cashmere weft elastic fabric ) 是由 吴栋标 于 2019-09-24 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种羊绒纬弹面料的生产方法,包括以下步骤：(1)蚕丝高弹化：将蚕丝脱胶得到的长丝加捻,加捻的长丝进行低温等离子体处理后再退捻,得到高弹性蚕丝；(2)纺纬纱：以高弹性蚕丝为芯纱,以羊绒纱为包缠纱,制备弹性包缠纱,作为纬纱；(3)纺经纱：以羊绒纤维和普通蚕丝纤维的混纺制成经纱；(4)织造：用经纱和纬纱织成斜纹布或缎纹布；(5)后整理。与现有技术相比,本发明没有添加化学纤维,只是单纯借助天然纤维和一定处理,使羊绒面料获得纬向弹性,保留了羊绒的自然弹性和蚕丝的光泽；适合作为裤子、大衣、裙装面料,解决传统羊绒面料容易出现松弛发懈的问题,面料含蚕丝导致的抗皱性差也因面料可以弹性回复而克服。(The invention discloses a production method of cashmere weft elastic fabric, which comprises the following steps: (1) high-elasticizing silk: twisting filaments obtained by degumming silk, and untwisting the twisted filaments after low-temperature plasma treatment to obtain high-elasticity silk; (2) weft yarn spinning: preparing elastic wrapping yarns by taking high-elasticity silk as core yarns and cashmere yarns as wrapping yarns to serve as weft yarns; (3) spinning warp yarns: blending cashmere fibers and common silk fibers to prepare warp yarns; (4) weaving: weaving twill cloth or satin cloth with warp and weft; (5) and (5) after-finishing. Compared with the prior art, the cashmere fabric has the advantages that chemical fibers are not added, and only natural fibers and certain treatment are used for the cashmere fabric to obtain weft-wise elasticity, so that the natural elasticity of cashmere and the luster of silk are kept; the cashmere fabric is suitable for being used as fabrics of trousers, overcoat and skirt, solves the problem that the traditional cashmere fabric is easy to relax, and overcomes the defect of poor wrinkle resistance caused by silk contained in the fabric due to the elastic recovery of the fabric.)

1. The production method of the cashmere weft elastic fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

(1) high-elasticizing silk: twisting filaments obtained by degumming silk, and untwisting the twisted filaments after low-temperature plasma treatment to obtain high-elasticity silk;

(2) weft yarn spinning: preparing elastic wrapping yarns by taking high-elasticity silk as core yarns and cashmere yarns as wrapping yarns to serve as weft yarns;

(3) spinning warp yarns: blending cashmere fibers and common silk fibers to prepare warp yarns;

(4) weaving: weaving twill cloth or satin cloth with warp and weft;

(5) and (5) after-finishing.

2. The method for producing cashmere weft stretch fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the silk highly-elasticizing step, the filaments are two boiled filaments.

3. The method for producing cashmere weft stretch fabric according to claim 2, wherein the fineness of the boiled yarn is 20/20D, and the twist of the twisted two boiled yarns is 18-27T/cm.

4. The production method of cashmere weft elastic fabric according to claim 3, characterized in that the low-temperature plasma treatment process is as follows: the twisted filament passes through oxygen plasma reaction chamber straightly, and is treated by low temperature oxygen plasma for 1-10min, the vacuum degree is 30-40Pa, and the power is 50-100W.

5. The method for producing cashmere weft stretch fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein in the silk high-texturing step, after the low-temperature plasma treatment and before the detwisting, there are further steps of dipping twisted filaments in an ionic solution for a short time, centrifuging, washing with water, and drying.

6. The method for producing cashmere weft stretch fabric according to claim 5, wherein in the silk high-texturing step, after the low-temperature plasma treatment, the twisted filaments are twisted again in the same direction and then dipped in an ionic solution.

7. The method for producing cashmere weft stretch fabric according to claim 6, wherein in the silk high-elasticizing step, the twist of the filaments twisted in the same direction again is 9 to 18T/cm.

8. The method for producing cashmere weft stretch fabric according to claim 6, wherein the ionic solution is a dilute solution of sodium nitrate and/or sodium chloride; the weight percentage concentration of the ionic solution is 1-5%, the temperature is 50-80 ℃, and the dipping time is 1-2 min.

9. The production method of the cashmere weft elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the weft yarn spinning step, the cashmere yarns and the high-elasticity silks are mixed according to a mass ratio of 6-9: 1, proportioning, and wrapping into a half bag.

10. The production method of cashmere weft elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the warp yarn spinning step, the mass ratio of cashmere fibers to common silk fibers is 6-9: 1.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a production method of a fabric, in particular to a production method of a cashmere weft elastic fabric.

Background

The cashmere fabric is a wool woven product made of high-quality natural cashmere fibers, and becomes a high-grade and high-grade fashion product pursued by consumers due to the characteristics of softness, lightness, smoothness, warmness and comfort. However, as fabrics of pants, overcoat and skirt made of cashmere, the cashmere is easy to relax and has poor restorability.

The weft elastic fabric, which is called weft elastic fabric for short, can be stretched and rebounded only left and right, has small up-down deformability, and is suitable for being used as the fabrics of trousers, overcoat and skirt with the weft needing to be deformed and recovered. However, the weft elastic fabric is generally woven by adding high-elasticity chemical fibers, such as spandex, into weft yarns. The addition of the chemical fiber influences the quality and grade of the cashmere fabric, so that the fabric has poor hygroscopicity, is stuffy and airtight when being worn on the body and has poor heat resistance.

The development of the cashmere weft elastic fabric without adding chemical fibers is a technical problem at the present stage.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provides a production method of cashmere weft elastic fabric which is not added with any chemical fiber and only takes natural fiber as a raw material.

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is realized by the following technical scheme: a production method of cashmere weft elastic fabric comprises the following steps:

(1) high-elasticizing silk: twisting filaments obtained by degumming silk, and untwisting the twisted filaments after low-temperature plasma treatment to obtain high-elasticity silk;

(2) weft yarn spinning: preparing elastic wrapping yarns by taking high-elasticity silk as core yarns and cashmere yarns as wrapping yarns to serve as weft yarns;

(3) spinning warp yarns: blending cashmere fibers and common silk fibers to prepare warp yarns;

(4) weaving: weaving twill cloth or satin cloth with warp and weft;

(5) and (5) after-finishing.

The silk is degummed and cooked to obtain filaments, the cooked silk mainly comprises fibroin, the fibroin comprises a crystalline region and an amorphous region, and a molecular chain of the fibroin is formed by connecting two types of chain segment blocks: some of the segments are formed by many amino chains arranged regularly and tightly among chains, which constitute crystalline regions in the fibers, and some are formed by loose amorphous regions due to the hindrance of large and complicated side chain branches, but the degree of crystallinity is as high as 20% or more, and therefore the elasticity is low.

The crystallinity of the silk is reduced through the low-temperature plasma treatment of the twisted filaments, more importantly, the twisting enables the surface of each silk to be partially exposed and partially hidden, and the exposure and the hiding are alternately carried out; after plasma treatment, the disorderly amorphization of the surface of the twisted bare silk is increased, and the crystal state of the twisted concealed surface is not changed; after untwisting, the filaments form a state containing micro-crystalline and disordered amorphous regions and alternately combining micro-crystalline regions and amorphous regions, so that the silk becomes spiral wave-shaped and high elasticity is obtained. On the basis, high-elasticity silk is taken as core yarn and cashmere yarn is taken as wrapping yarn in a breakthrough manner, and natural elastic wrapping yarn is prepared to be taken as weft yarn; blending cashmere fibers and common silk fibers to prepare yarns as warp yarns; the fabric is made into twill or satin, and the production of cashmere weft elastic fabric is realized.

Preferably, in the silk high-elasticizing step, the filaments are two boiled filaments. Namely, the plied yarn obtained by plying and twisting two boiled yarns is used for low-temperature plasma treatment. Through low-temperature plasma treatment, the exposed surface of one monofilament in the strand is more amorphous, and the hidden surface side of the other monofilament in the strand stores the original crystalline structure in a freeze-dried manner. Preferably, the fineness of the boiled silk is 20/20D, and the twist of the two boiled silk plying twists is 18-27T/cm. The alternating arrangement frequency of the microcrystal and the amorphous is maximized by twisting the silk to high twist and carrying out low-temperature plasma treatment.

Preferably, the low-temperature plasma treatment process is as follows: the twisted filament passes through oxygen plasma reaction chamber straightly, and is treated by low temperature oxygen plasma for 1-10min, the vacuum degree is 30-40Pa, and the power is 50-100W. The oxygen is ionized into a plasma state by applying energy to the oxygen, so that the exposed surface of the boiled silk after twisting is oxidized, the amorphization degree is increased, and the side with the hidden twist cannot contact with the plasma, so that the crystallization state is maintained.

Preferably, the silk high-elasticizing step further comprises the steps of dipping the twisted filaments in an ionic solution for a short time, centrifuging, washing with water and drying after the low-temperature plasma treatment and before untwisting. Partial polar amino acid can be dissolved out by soaking in an ionic solution, cations in the ionic solution penetrate into a crystallization area of the silk fibroin from the exposed surface of the twisted filaments due to twisting, the crystallinity is further reduced, and the elasticity of the silk is improved.

Further preferably, in the silk high-elasticizing step, after the low-temperature plasma treatment, the twisted filaments are twisted again in the same direction and then dipped in an ionic solution. After the secondary twisting, the silk is dipped, so that the amorphization of the local part of the silk, especially the part with the maximum crimpness is increased, the accumulation of larger internal stress at the part is realized, and the elasticity of the silk is further increased. And through the secondary twisting, the gap between the filament and the silk fibroin is reduced, and the ionic solution is difficult to permeate to the surface of the filament which is hidden due to twisting, so that the tiny crystals at the position can be better protected in the ionic solution.

Preferably, in the silk high-elasticizing step, the twist of the filaments twisted in the same direction is 9-18T/cm.

Preferably, the ionic solution is a dilute solution of sodium nitrate and/or sodium chloride; the weight percentage concentration of the ionic solution is 1-5%, the temperature is 50-80 ℃, and the dipping time is 1-2 min. Unlike other ionic solutions, especially concentrated solutions, where the silk fibroin in the filaments undergoes infinite swelling and even dissolution, in dilute solutions of sodium chloride and sodium nitrate, silk fibroin undergoes only limited swelling and does not dissolve, thereby reducing the effect of the impregnation time on the process.

Preferably, in the step of spinning the weft yarns, the cashmere yarns and the high-elasticity silks are mixed according to the mass ratio of 6-9: 1, proportioning, and wrapping into a half bag.

Preferably, in the step of spinning warp yarns, the mass ratio of cashmere fibers to common silk fibers is 6-9: 1.

compared with the prior art, the invention has the advantages and beneficial effects that: the production method of the invention does not add any chemical fiber, and only uses natural fiber and certain treatment to ensure that the cashmere fabric obtains weft-wise elasticity, thereby keeping the natural elasticity of cashmere and the luster of silk; the cashmere fabric is suitable for being used as fabrics of trousers, overcoat and skirt, solves the problem that the traditional cashmere fabric is easy to relax, and overcomes the defect of poor wrinkle resistance caused by silk contained in the fabric due to the elastic recovery of the fabric.

Detailed Description

The following describes the present invention with reference to examples. The following examples are only for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention more clearly, and the protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereby.