阅读说明：本技术 一种毛精纺超级抗皱免烫面料及其生产方法 (Wool worsted super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric and production method thereof ) 是由 陶建忠 杨磊 朱磊 黄利芳 于 2019-10-15 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种毛精纺超级抗皱免烫面料及其生产方法,面料采用混纺的经纱和纬纱通过织造而成,经纱由2根细纱1并线合股并经倍捻制成,且经纱的捻系数为200~240；纬纱由细纱1和细纱2按并线合股并经倍捻制成,且纬纱的捻系数为140~180,其中,细纱1由羊毛及其他纤维按混纺而成,细纱2由羊毛、弹性纤维及其他纤维混纺而成。本发明的面料通过高捻的经纱和具有弹性的纬纱配合织造而成的面料,体现在面料中即增加了“钢筋”(即经纱),又增加了“皮筋”(即纬纱),“钢筋”和“皮筋”相互作用,刚柔并进、相互弥补达到面料即柔软又有弹性(刚性弹和伸缩弹),从而达到超级抗皱免烫效果。(The invention relates to a wool worsted super crease-resistant non-ironing fabric and a production method thereof, the fabric is woven by blended warp yarns and weft yarns, the warp yarns are made by doubling and twisting two times of 2 spun yarns 1, the twist coefficient of the warp yarns is 200 ~ 240, the weft yarns are made by doubling and twisting two times of the spun yarns 1 and 2, and the twist coefficient of the weft yarns is 140 ~ 180, wherein the spun yarns 1 are made by blending wool and other fibers, and the spun yarns 2 are made by blending wool, elastic fibers and other fibers.)

1. The wool worsted crease-resistant non-ironing fabric is formed by weaving blended warp yarns and weft yarns, and the raw materials of the fabric comprise wool, elastic fibers and other fibers, and the fabric is characterized in that: the warp is made by doubling and plying 2 spun yarns 1 and twisting for two times, and the twist coefficient of the warp is 200-240, and the twist number is 1400-1600 turns/m; the weft yarn is formed by doubling and plying the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2 and twisting the spun yarn for two times, the twist coefficient of the weft yarn is 140-180, and the twist number is 1000-1200 turns/m, wherein the spun yarn 1 is formed by blending the wool and other fibers, and the spun yarn 2 is formed by blending the wool, the elastic fibers and other fibers.

2. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the spun yarn 1 has the yarn count of 80-110 Nm, the twist coefficient of 80-120, the twist number of 800-950 turns/m and the twist direction Z; the spun yarn 2 has a yarn count of 90-120 Nm, a twist coefficient of 80-120, a twist number of 800-950 turns/m, and a twisting direction Z, and the twisting direction of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is S.

3. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the spun yarn 2 is core spun yarn, and the core yarn is the elastic fiber.

4. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the elastic fiber is lycra or spandex.

5. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the total tightness of the fabric is 115-120, and the ratio of weft density to warp density is 0.8-1.0.

6. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the wool accounts for 65-80% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, and the elastic fiber accounts for 1-10% of the total mass of the wool, the elastic fiber and other fibers.

7. The wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 6, wherein: the other fibers are mulberry silk, polyester, bamboo charcoal fibers and conductive fibers, wherein the polyester accounts for 10-20% of the total mass of the wool and the other fibers, the mulberry silk accounts for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and the other fibers, the bamboo charcoal fibers account for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and the other fibers, and the conductive fibers account for 0.1-1% of the total mass of the wool and the other fibers.

8. The production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the production method comprises the following steps:

(1) making the wool and other fibers into wool tops;

(2) spinning the wool tops and the elastic fibers to prepare yarns, and weaving to prepare grey cloth;

(3) carrying out post-treatment on the grey cloth to obtain a finished fabric product,

in the step (2), the spinning process comprises the steps of mixing strips → head needle → two needles → three needles → four needles → roving → spun yarn → yarn steaming → automatic winding → doubling → two-for-one twisting → yarn steaming,

wherein the spun yarn comprises the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2;

the yarn steaming after the spinning process is to perform yarn steaming treatment on the spun yarn 2;

the yarn steaming after the double twisting process comprises the steps of respectively steaming the warp yarns and the weft yarns;

and the warp yarns and the weft yarns after the yarn steaming treatment are used for weaving the grey cloth.

9. The production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that:

the post-finishing process of the grey cloth comprises the following steps: raw trimming → singeing → high-temperature shaping → one-time open washing and continuous boiling → high-speed washing → relaxation broad width → drying → intermediate inspection → ripe trimming → secondary singeing → washing and shrinkage combined washing → secondary open washing and continuous boiling → high-temperature shaping and drying and soft finishing → shearing → decatizing → wetting → intermittence → hot polishing → intermittence → pot steaming → finished product,

wherein the high-speed washing process adopts a detergent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the speed of 200-400 m/min, the washing time of 40-80 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%;

the washing and shrinking combined washing process adopts a softening agent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the vehicle speed of 150-300 m/min, the washing time of 20-50 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%.

10. The production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that: in the post-finishing process of the grey cloth,

the singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;

the high-temperature setting process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min and the breadth of 160-180 cm;

adding an angora sizing agent when the water temperature of the primary open washing and continuous boiling is 80-95 ℃;

the secondary singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;

the water temperature of the secondary open washing and continuous boiling is 75-85 ℃;

the high-temperature setting, drying and softening finishing process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min, the softening agent of 1-5% and the broad width of 140-160 cm;

the hot finishing process adopts a compression roller with the pressure of 40-50 kg, the temperature of 120-130 ℃, the speed of 15-25 m/min and the front face hot finishing.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of wool spinning and spinning, and particularly relates to a wool spinning super anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric and a production method thereof.

Background

The worsted western-style clothes are the first-selected high-grade clothes for high-grade white, professional, fashion and the like, the majority of fabrics selected for the clothes are high-grade worsted fabrics, the fabrics are pure wool, wool and other fiber blended fabrics, the fabrics are strong in wool feeling, soft, stiff, high-grade and large, good in drapability and good in heat retention, the production design of the fabrics is completed under the technical condition of wool worsted equipment, and the whole production system comprises 60-80 processes (different process routes are selected according to the clothes requirements of the fabrics).

Although the worsted fabric is the preferred fabric of the high-grade professional suit, the defects which are difficult to overcome in the process of taking by consumers for a long time are as follows: firstly, clothes are easy to wrinkle, wrinkles generated in the process of taking the clothes cannot be restored to be smooth in time, and the wrinkles can be solved only by ironing, so that the long-term taking effect is influenced; secondly, after washing, the clothes need to be ironed and flattened, and wrinkles are not easy to remove without ironing.

At present, two methods are mainly adopted for solving the problems domestically and internationally:

the first method is to twist the warp and weft yarns (woven worsted fabric is done on a loom using both warp and weft system yarns) in the same direction, so called hard twist. For example, the production method of the high-grade wool heavy-twist crease-resistant fabric disclosed in chinese patent CN104397910A is that the fabric is made by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns, and the warp yarns and the weft yarns are made by selecting 2 single yarns with 90S yarn count, plying and twisting according to the twisting direction Z and the twist number of 1300 twist/m.

The yarn with the structure has enhanced rigidity and elasticity, improves the anti-wrinkle performance of the fabric, is equivalent to adding reinforcing steel bars to the fabric when being used in the fabric, achieves the anti-wrinkle effect by using the rigidity of the reinforcing steel bars, and has good results. The following disadvantages still remain: firstly, the strength of the yarn is reduced by more than 30 percent, the wool fibers in the yarn are distorted and deformed, the natural crimping property of the wool fibers is lost, the yarn is uneven, the yarn breaking rate of spinning and weaving is high, the consumption is large, the efficiency is low, and the surface defects of the fabric are more; secondly, the fabric has hard hand feeling and rough, dry and uneven surface; yarn density in the fabric is low, yarn gaps on the surface of the fabric are large, the appearance is not fine and smooth, and dust is easy to invade.

The second method is to adopt resin to carry out crease-resistant finishing on the fabric, the processing method is simple, chemical auxiliary agents are adopted to carry out padding on the fabric, and then the fabric is baked at high temperature, the principle of the method is also to make the fabric stiff, which is equivalent to coating a layer of film on the surface of the fabric, and the processed fabric has the following defects: firstly, the color of the fabric is changed, and the anti-wrinkle effect is not lasting; secondly, the fabric has stiff hand feeling, the wool feeling is lost, and the drapability and the elegant feeling of the fabric are greatly lost; thirdly, the natural characteristics of the wool fiber are destroyed, and the treatment process is not environment-friendly.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide the wool worsted anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric which is soft and elastic, thereby achieving the super anti-wrinkle non-ironing effect and the production method thereof.

In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:

the wool worsted anti-wrinkle non-ironing fabric is woven by blended warp yarns and weft yarns, the raw materials of the fabric comprise wool, elastic fibers and other fibers, the warp yarns are formed by doubling and plying 2 spun yarns 1 and twisting for two times, the twist coefficient of the warp yarns is 200-240, and the twist number is 1400-1600 turns/m; the weft yarn is formed by doubling and plying the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2 and twisting the spun yarn for two times, the twist coefficient of the weft yarn is 140-180, and the twist number is 1000-1200 turns/m, wherein the spun yarn 1 is formed by blending the wool and other fibers, and the spun yarn 2 is formed by blending the wool, the elastic fibers and other fibers.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the spun yarn 1 has a yarn count of 80 to 110Nm, a twist multiplier of 80 to 120, a twist number of 800 to 950 turns/m, a twist direction Z; the spun yarn 2 has a yarn count of 90-120 Nm, a twist coefficient of 80-120, a twist number of 800-950 turns/m, and a twisting direction Z, and the twisting direction of the warp yarn and the weft yarn is S.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the spun yarn 2 is a core spun yarn, and the core yarn is the elastic fiber.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the elastic fiber is lycra or spandex.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the total tightness of the fabric is 115-120, and the ratio of weft density to warp density is 0.8-1.0.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the wool comprises 65 to 80% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, and the elastic fibers comprise 1 to 10% of the total mass of the wool, elastic fibers and other fibers.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the other fibers are mulberry silk, polyester, bamboo charcoal fiber and conductive fiber, wherein the polyester accounts for 10-20% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, the mulberry silk accounts for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, the bamboo charcoal fiber accounts for 2-8% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers, and the conductive fiber accounts for 0.1-1% of the total mass of the wool and other fibers.

The invention adopts another technical scheme that: the production method of the wool worsted anti-wrinkle easy-care fabric comprises the following steps:

(1) making the wool and other fibers into wool tops;

(2) spinning the wool tops and the elastic fibers to prepare yarns, and weaving to prepare grey cloth;

(3) carrying out post-treatment on the grey cloth to obtain a finished fabric product,

in the step (2), the spinning process comprises the steps of mixing strips → head needle → two needles → three needles → four needles → roving → spun yarn → yarn steaming → automatic winding → doubling → two-for-one twisting → yarn steaming,

wherein the spun yarn comprises the spun yarn 1 and the spun yarn 2;

the yarn steaming after the spinning process is to perform yarn steaming treatment on the spun yarn 2;

the yarn steaming after the double twisting process comprises the steps of respectively steaming the warp yarns and the weft yarns;

and the warp yarns and the weft yarns after the yarn steaming treatment are used for weaving the grey cloth.

According to some embodiments of the present invention in some aspects,

the post-finishing process of the grey cloth comprises the following steps: raw trimming → singeing → high-temperature shaping → one-time open washing and continuous boiling → high-speed washing → relaxation broad width → drying → intermediate inspection → ripe trimming → secondary singeing → washing and shrinkage combined washing → secondary open washing and continuous boiling → high-temperature shaping and drying and soft finishing → shearing → decatizing → wetting → intermittence → hot polishing → intermittence → pot steaming → finished product,

wherein the high-speed washing process adopts a detergent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the speed of 200-400 m/min, the washing time of 40-80 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%;

the washing and shrinking combined washing process adopts a softening agent with the temperature of 40-50 ℃, the vehicle speed of 150-300 m/min, the washing time of 20-50 min, the washing time of 10-30 min and the washing speed of 1-5%.

According to some embodiments of the invention, in the post-finishing process of the blank,

the singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;

the high-temperature setting process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min and the breadth of 160-180 cm;

the primary open washing and continuous boiling is imported open washing and continuous boiling, the water temperature is 80-95 ℃, and an angora sizing agent is added;

the secondary singeing process adopts a positive fire hole and a negative fire hole respectively, the flame temperature is 900-1100 ℃, and the speed is 100-120 m/min;

the water temperature of the secondary open washing and continuous boiling is 75-85 ℃;

the high-temperature setting, drying and softening finishing process adopts the temperature of 180-200 ℃, the vehicle speed of 16-20 m/min, the softening agent of 1-5% and the broad width of 140-160 cm;

the hot finishing process adopts a compression roller with the pressure of 40-50 kg, the temperature of 120-130 ℃, the speed of 15-25 m/min and the front face hot finishing.

According to some embodiments of the invention, in step (1),

the process for making the wool tops comprises the following steps: dyeing → color bar rewashing → mixed bar → gill comb → combing → gill comb → finished bar.

According to some embodiments of the invention, in step (2),

the weaving process comprises the following steps: warping of warp → beaming of warp → warp drawing-in → weaving on warp and weft,

wherein, the woven texture adopts 2/2 twill serge texture.

Due to the application of the technical scheme, compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages:

the warp yarn of the fabric is formed by doubling and plying spun yarns 1 without elastic fibers and twisting the spun yarns for two times to form warp yarn with the twist coefficient of 200-240, the weft yarn is formed by doubling and plying the spun yarns 1 without elastic fibers and spun yarns 2 with elastic fibers, the fabric is woven by matching the high-twist warp yarn and the elastic weft yarn, a reinforcing steel bar (namely the warp yarn) and a rubber band (namely the weft yarn) are added in the fabric, the reinforcing steel bar and the rubber band interact with each other, and the fabric is soft and elastic (rigid elasticity and elastic elasticity) through rigid-flexible doubling and mutual compensation, so that the super crease-resistant and non-ironing effect is achieved.

The fabric also solves the great problem which puzzles the professional garments for a long time, namely that the elastic fabric is not suitable for being made into the professional garments, and the elastic fatigue of the professional garments made of the elastic fabric is not recovered after the professional garments are taken for a long time, so that the phenomenon that knees, elbows and buttocks are wrapped is caused.

The final physical and chemical indexes of the fabric product produced by the production method of the invention reach or exceed the ministerial first-class product requirements, the mechanical crease resistance in crease resistance non-ironing performance reaches 5 grades through detection, and the water washing non-ironing performance reaches 4 grades.

Detailed Description

In the aspect of wool worsted crease-resistant non-ironing fabric, the application of mature technology in the aspect is not available at home, the mature process introduction in the aspect is not seen at abroad, the process applied at home is only known, the two aspects of 'strong twisting and auxiliary finishing' mentioned in the background technology are only available, and the fabrics created by the technology have the problems (such as weak wool feeling, loss of the characteristics of wool fabrics, rough appearance, multiple production defects, low production efficiency, high wool use requirement, hard handfeel, non-lasting crease resistance, fabric color change and the like), are not recognized by people, are not popularized and applied, and only meet the requirements of customers and are generated and exist in a nearly trace manner.

The fabric is a completely innovative product, is based on the consideration that a large number of professional garment consumers are worried during the process of taking worsted professional garments, and solves a plurality of problems listed above by using a new process under the premise of not changing the characteristics of the fabric. The invention also solves a big problem puzzling the professional garments for a long time, namely that the elastic fabric is not suitable for being made into the professional garments, and the elastic fatigue of the professional garments made of the elastic fabric is not recovered after the professional garments are taken for a long time, so that the phenomenon of the knee, the elbow and the hip being wrapped is caused, and the invention is mainly embodied in the following aspects:

firstly, the method breaks through the traditional spinning process parameter design technology, does not need strong twisting yarns (same-direction twisting) and uses high twisting yarns (opposite-direction twisting), thereby solving the spinning performance of spinning, solving the natural elastic release of wool fibers, remarkably improving the yarn strength and solving the smooth surface of the yarn.

Secondly, the elastic fiber-lycra is fully utilized, the spinning and package combining technology is utilized, the core-spun yarn and the plied yarn technology are not independently adopted, the rigidity performance of the elastic yarn is greatly improved, and the problems of stable elasticity and no exposure of lycra are solved.

Thirdly, through a product design method, matching with fabric lines, and adopting proper tightness and warp-weft proportion, the rigid yarns and the flexible yarns are organically combined together, and the two groups of yarns are mutually contradictory and restricted to mutually compensate and achieve the best appearance effect and the internal anti-wrinkle effect. In this respect, through the orthogonal proportion of rigid and flexible yarns, the most suitable parameters are found out, the performance of all aspects is considered to be very critical, the rigid yarns are used in too much proportion, although the anti-wrinkle effect is enhanced, the fabric is stiff, the rigid yarns are too small in proportion, although the fabric is soft, the anti-wrinkle performance is reduced, the compactness is too high, the fabric is stiff, the elasticity is reduced, the compactness is too low, the fabric is soft, and the inherent and appearance effects such as strength and fine and smooth degree of lines are reduced.

Fourthly, the design idea is completely shown through a special after-finishing process. The after-finishing process design is a guarantee for realizing the design idea, and the supplement and the improvement are carried out on the basis of the traditional process, so that the expected effect is finally realized.

The production method of the invention combines the new process with the traditional process, and has the following advantages:

comparison of the advantages of the first, high twist and co-twist yarns: A. the appearance of the high-twist yarn shows the smooth and round tight characteristic, the surface of the yarn is smooth, the cross section of the yarn is more similar to a circle, the fiber arrangement is more compact, and the same-direction twisting cannot be compared; B. the production efficiency and consumption of high-twist yarns are more dominant than those of same-direction twist yarns, in the aspect of the end breakage rate of a two-for-one twisting process, the high-twist ratio is reduced by 80%, in the weaving process, the end breakage rate of high-twist warp yarns is reduced by 70% than that of same-direction twist warp yarns, and the weaving efficiency reaches 90% (the same-direction twist is only 60%); C. the high twist and the same direction twist yarn have different strength, the same direction twist strength is improved by more than 30 percent than the high twist yarn strength, and the elongation at break is almost the same.

And secondly, the high-twist yarns and the same-direction twist yarns have different twists, so that different requirements on the aspect of using raw materials are met, the shrinkage of the high-twist yarns from single yarns to strand yarns is 94-95.5%, the high-twist yarns are increased and decreased according to the size of twist coefficient selection, the larger the twist coefficient is, the larger the twist is, and the smaller the twist is, the smaller the same-direction twist is, the larger the twist is, and the 91-94% of twist in the same direction is, so that according to the statistical data, if two varieties of yarns with the same yarn count are needed, the larger the twist needs to be thinner single yarns, the difference is 2-4Nm, according to a product design theory, one-grade wool needs to be improved, and the cost of the fabric is increased.

And thirdly, designing parameters of the total tightness and the weft-warp ratio of the product, wherein the two parameters of the total tightness and the weft-warp ratio of the product are always the core of the product design, and the two parameters generally define a certain range in the fabric. The weft-warp ratio parameters are centrally embodied in the configuration of rubber bands and reinforcing steel bars, and directly influence the micro data change of the crease resistance and the hand feeling elasticity of the fabric.

Fourthly, a double-wet finishing process is adopted for the post-finishing of the grey cloth so as to ensure the soft hand feeling and the dimensional stability of the fabric.

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to specific examples. It is to be understood that these embodiments are provided to illustrate the general principles, major features and advantages of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited in scope by the following embodiments. The implementation conditions used in the examples can be further adjusted according to specific requirements, and the implementation conditions not indicated are generally the conditions in routine experiments.