阅读说明：本技术 一种美白淡斑紧致精华液及其制备方法 (Whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence and preparation method thereof ) 是由 唐万夫 丛琳 李雪竹 于 2021-10-09 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种美白淡斑紧致精华液及其制备方法,涉及化妆品技术领域；所述美白淡斑紧致精华液,按质量百分比计,由以下组分组成：多元醇：6-30％；氨甲环酸：0.5-2％；4-甲氧基水杨酸钾：0.5-3％；抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯磷酸酯三钠0.1-1％；促渗剂：0.1-2％；去离子水：余量；螯合剂：0.05-0.15％；缓冲剂：0.2-0.4％；辅助成分：0.5-2.0％；所述美白淡斑紧致精华液的pH为7.0-7.5。本发明的美白淡斑紧致精华液不仅能平衡pH值,减少紫外线照射引起的炎症,并能进一步减少炎症性色素沉着；在美白淡斑的同时,还能从表皮层到真皮层紧致皮肤,协调互补,从而起到美白淡斑紧致作用。(The invention discloses whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence and a preparation method thereof, and relates to the technical field of cosmetics; the whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence consists of the following components in percentage by mass: polyol: 6 to 30 percent; tranexamic acid: 0.5-2%; 4-methoxy potassium salicylate: 0.5-3%; 0.1-1% of trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate; penetration enhancer: 0.1-2%; deionized water: the balance; chelating agent: 0.05 to 0.15 percent; buffering agent: 0.2 to 0.4 percent; auxiliary components: 0.5-2.0%; the pH value of the whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence is 7.0-7.5. The whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence disclosed by the invention not only can balance the pH value and reduce inflammation caused by ultraviolet irradiation, but also can further reduce inflammatory pigmentation; the whitening and spot-lightening cream can tighten skin from an epidermal layer to a dermal layer while whitening and spot-lightening, and is coordinated and complementary, so that the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening effects are achieved.)

1. The whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:

polyol: 6 to 30 percent;

tranexamic acid: 0.5-2%;

4-methoxy potassium salicylate: 0.5-3%;

0.1-1% of trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate;

penetration enhancer: 0.1-2%;

chelating agent: 0.05 to 0.15 percent;

buffering agent: 0.2 to 0.4 percent;

auxiliary components: 0.5-2.0%;

deionized water: the balance;

the pH value of the whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence is 7.0-7.5.

2. The essence of claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is one or more selected from dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, and 1, 2-hexanediol.

3. The essence of claim 1, wherein the penetration enhancer is bis-diethyldiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

4. The essence of claim 1, wherein the chelating agent is EDTA-4 Na.

5. The whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence according to claim 1, wherein the buffering agent is trisodium citrate.

6. The whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the auxiliary ingredients are selected from one or more of thickening agents, moisturizers, fragrances, solubilizers and preservatives.

7. The whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence according to claim 6, wherein the thickener is one or more selected from transparent xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose.

8. The essence of claim 6, wherein the humectant is sodium hyaluronate.

9. The whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence according to claim 6, wherein the solubilizer is a mixture of PPG-26-Butanethol-26 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

10. The preparation method of the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising the steps of:

(1) adding part of deionized water into the main pot, mixing part of polyol with thickener, stirring, heating to 80-90 deg.C, maintaining for 10-30 min to ensure transparent dissolution, and cooling;

(2) cooling to 55-60 deg.C, adding chelating agent and buffer, stirring and dissolving to transparent;

(3) cooling to 50-55 deg.C, mixing with the rest polyalcohol with antiseptic, dissolving, adding, stirring, and dissolving to transparent;

(4) cooling to 40-45 deg.C, mixing solubilizer and aromatic, adding, stirring to dissolve to transparent;

(5) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding penetration enhancer, dissolving tranexamic acid, 4-methoxy potassium salicylate, and trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate in the rest deionized water, respectively, adding one by one, stirring, and dissolving to transparent;

(6) and cooling to room temperature, sampling, detecting and discharging after the product is qualified, and obtaining the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence and a preparation method thereof.

Background

With the increasing number of 'acid brushing' products in the market, the whitening formula of a weak acid system containing alpha-hydroxy acid or beta-hydroxy acid such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid and the like is gradually increased, after a consumer uses the whitening formula, the skin cuticle can be rapidly peeled off, and the phenomena of skin smoothness, stabbing pain, desquamation, red swelling, pruritus, dryness and the like are caused from the beginning, and the whitening formula is a problem that the epidermis cuticle is gradually thinned, the skin loss is increased, and the barrier function is reduced,

secondly, weakly acidic system whitening products containing papain, ferment and other keratin exfoliants are increasing, the products can accelerate the renewal of the cuticle of the skin, the cuticle can be gradually thinned after long-term use, and the hidden troubles of pruritus, stabbing pain and the like can be brought; meanwhile, the skin-whitening cream also has a weak acid system whitening product which is matched with a spot-removing agent such as VC ethyl ether, VC palmitate, VC tetraisopalmitate, phenethyl resorcinol, arbutin, nicotinamide and the like with fruit acid or papain and the like, so that the skin-whitening cream is more used by consumers, but the skin-whitening cream still has the problems of horny layer peeling and horny layer renewal after being frequently used for a long time, thereby causing the risk of hidden troubles, particularly inducing excessive melanin generation by ultraviolet irradiation, and enabling the skin to be blacker.

In addition, the whitening product containing the freckle removing agents such as VC phosphate magnesium, VC phosphate sodium, undecylenoyl phenylalanine and the like is a weak alkaline system, but the freckle removing agents have weak permeability and low utilization rate, and the whitening effect is greatly reduced.

Therefore, a product which can balance the pH value of the skin, reduce skin inflammation caused by ultraviolet irradiation, even reduce pigmentation caused by inflammation and has the function of tightening the epidermis layer to the dermis layer while whitening the skin is developed, and the product can effectively fill the market and the requirements of consumers.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provides the whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence and the preparation method thereof, and the whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence can balance the pH value, reduce inflammation caused by ultraviolet irradiation and further reduce inflammatory pigmentation; the whitening and spot-lightening cream can tighten skin from an epidermal layer to a dermal layer while whitening and spot-lightening, and is coordinated and complementary, so that the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening effects are achieved.

In order to solve the technical problems, the invention provides the following technical scheme:

the first aspect provides whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

polyol: 6 to 30 percent;

tranexamic acid: 0.5-2%;

4-methoxy potassium salicylate: 0.5-3%;

0.1-1% of trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate;

penetration enhancer: 0.1-2%;

chelating agent: 0.05 to 0.15 percent;

buffering agent: 0.2 to 0.4 percent;

auxiliary components: 0.5-2.0%;

deionized water: the balance;

the pH value of the whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence is 7.0-7.5.

Alpha-hydroxy acid and beta-hydroxy acid such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, salicylic acid, caprylyl salicylic acid and the like and papain can accelerate cutin exfoliant after being used. Therefore, weakly acidic kojic acid, nicotinamide, phenethyl resorcinol, arbutin, azelaic acid and the like, acidic ascorbic acid or weakly acidic VC derivative-VC ethyl ether are eliminated, and raw materials such as VC phosphate sodium salt, VC phosphate magnesium salt, VC glucoside and the like which are weakly alkaline but have poor infiltration effect are eliminated.

On the basis of meeting the conditions, the invention adopts the mechanism that aiming at the condition that the skin is irradiated by ultraviolet rays, the freckle removing agent selects tranexamic acid with anti-inflammatory effect firstly, selects 4-methoxy potassium salicylate for improving dyskeratosis so as to prevent black spots and freckles, and selects trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate with good permeability and freckle removing and tightening effects simultaneously.

The tranexamic acid selected by the invention has two functions: the first is the whitening aspect: interference with melanin production at the head-the stratum corneum, when stimulated by uv radiation, releases prostaglandin 2, which reactivates melanin production; tranexamic acid is a protease inhibitor, and can inhibit not only tyrosinase, but also prostaglandin 2 release, thereby preventing melanin aggregation. Secondly, tranexamic acid can inhibit the expression of protease activated receptor, thereby preventing melanin from diffusing to peripheral cells and exerting whitening effect from the rear end. In a second aspect, tranexamic acid can also achieve anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory effects compared with other whitening components, and reduce the inflammation problem caused by ultraviolet irradiation on the skin of consumers who use products containing cutin exfoliants excessively; in the invention, repeated tests show that the whitening effect is small when the content of tranexamic acid is lower than 0.5%, and when the content of tranexamic acid is increased to 2.0%, the whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence disclosed by the invention changes color (is slightly deepened) in a light test, but the test color changes within an acceptable range, so that the addition amount is selected to be 0.5-2.0%.

The 4-methoxy potassium salicylate can inhibit the reduction of ultraviolet rays on the expression of the pocket protein, improve the abnormal keratinization, correct the atypical proliferation of epidermis, promote the metabolism of melanin, reduce the effect of PIH (inflammatory pigmentation), relieve excessive pigmentation and prevent freckles and spots; in the invention, repeated tests show that when the content of the 4-methoxy potassium salicylate is less than 0.5%, the effect of the potassium salicylate is small, and when the content of the potassium salicylate is increased to 3.0%, the whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence disclosed by the invention changes color (is slightly deepened) in a 45 ℃ heat resistance test, but the color change in the test is within an acceptable range, so that the addition amount is selected to be 0.5-3.0%.

The ascorbyl palmitate trisodium phosphate is different from other ascorbic acid derivatives, has hydrophilicity and lipophilicity, greatly increases skin permeability, can effectively permeate into a dermis layer, and better plays a role in removing freckles and compacting from an epidermis layer to the dermis layer: in the process of permeating into the skin, the ascorbyl palmitate trisodium phosphate is quickly enzymolyzed into ascorbic acid, so that the ascorbic acid can be efficiently transmitted into cells, and on one hand, the activity of tyrosinase in the cells is inhibited, and the synthesis of melanin in melanoma cells B16 is inhibited; on the other hand, the collagen peptide can remove free radicals, inhibit the enzyme activities of matrix metalloproteinases MMP-2 and MMP-9 so as to inhibit collagen hydrolase, remarkably improve the synthesis of collagen and improve the skin firmness; and trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is suitably at a pH between 7.0 and 8.5.

The invention forms a buffer system through the chelation of the chelating agent and the buffer, controls the pH value of the system to be alkalescent and maintains the pH value between 7.0 and 7.5. Preferably, the chelating agent in the present invention is EDTA-4 Na; the buffer is trisodium citrate.

The pH value of the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence is controlled to be alkalescent between 7.0 and 7.5; on one hand, the pH value of the skin can be balanced, the stimulation of acidic substances is reduced, on the other hand, the requirement that tranexamic acid and 4-methoxy potassium salicylate cannot change color due to overhigh pH value is met, and the problems that trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is hydrolyzed and separated out due to overlow pH value are solved, so that the stability of the formula is controlled, and the problems of color change and component separation of the formula are solved.

Further, the polyalcohol is selected from one or more of dipropylene glycol, butanediol, isoprene glycol and 1, 2-hexanediol. The stability of the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate in the formula can be improved by adding the polyalcohol, if the palmitic acid bond is hydrolyzed, the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate can be dissolved in the polyalcohol and cannot be separated out in water, wherein the protection effects of the isoprene glycol and the 1, 2-hexanediol are optimal, and the dipropylene glycol and the butanediol are inferior; however, in consideration of skin irritation, it is more preferable that dipropylene glycol and butylene glycol be used as main components, isoprene glycol and 1, 2-hexanediol be used, and the total amount of polyhydric alcohol is more than 6%.

Further, the penetration enhancer is bis-diethyldiglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

The invention adopts the amphiphilic emollient which is hydrophilic and oleophylic, namely bis-diethyl diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic ester, on one hand, the integral permeation effect of the formula is improved, on the other hand, the sticky feeling of the formula is reduced, and the moistening degree is increased.

Further, the auxiliary ingredients of the whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence are selected from one or more of thickening agents, humectants, fragrances, solubilizing agents and preservatives.

In terms of selection of the thickener, the thickener can be selected from thickeners commonly used in the cosmetic field, but because the system has strong ionic property and the pH value of the system is alkalescent, the thickener of the invention is preferably one or more of transparent xanthan gum and hydroxyethyl cellulose.

As mentioned above, the humectant is preferably sodium hyaluronate, because the pH value of the system is weakly alkaline, the components are required to be as single as possible, the mechanism is transparent and simple, and phosphatase-containing substances (such as placenta extract and the like) are avoided; more preferably, the humectant is sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 80-100 daltons.

Similarly, the aromatic agent can be selected from aromatic agents commonly used in cosmetics field, preferably flower and fruit aroma suitable for weak pH.

In terms of the selection of the solubilizer, the solubilizer disclosed by the invention is a mixture of PPG-26-butanol polyether-26 and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

In terms of selection of the preservative, the preservative can be selected from preservatives commonly used in the cosmetic field, and preferably, the preservative is prepared by compounding phenoxyethanol and methylparaben or p-hydroxyacetophenone.

In a second aspect, the invention further provides a preparation method of the whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence in the first aspect, which comprises the following steps:

(1) adding part of deionized water into the main pot, mixing part of polyol with thickener, stirring, heating to 80-90 deg.C, maintaining for 10-30 min to ensure transparent dissolution, and cooling;

(2) cooling to 55-60 deg.C, adding chelating agent and buffer, stirring and dissolving to transparent;

(3) cooling to 50-55 deg.C, mixing with the rest polyalcohol with antiseptic, dissolving, adding, stirring, and dissolving to transparent;

(4) cooling to 40-45 deg.C, mixing solubilizer and aromatic, adding, stirring to dissolve to transparent;

(5) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding penetration enhancer, dissolving tranexamic acid, 4-methoxy potassium salicylate, and trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate in the rest deionized water, respectively, adding one by one, stirring, and dissolving to transparent;

(6) and cooling to room temperature, sampling, detecting and discharging after the product is qualified, and obtaining the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence.

In the preparation method, the specific dosage of part of deionized water and part of polyol can be adjusted according to actual preparation requirements, and the corresponding components can be dissolved.

In the invention, the deionized water is water meeting the requirements of cosmetics.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

1. the whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence disclosed by the invention is prepared by specifically selecting tranexamic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid and trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate, and controlling the pH value of a system to be alkalescent at 7.0-7.5: on one hand, the pH value of the skin can be balanced, the stimulation of acidic substances is reduced, on the other hand, the requirements that tranexamic acid and 4-methoxy potassium salicylate cannot change color due to overhigh pH value are met, and the problems that trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is hydrolyzed and separated out due to overlow pH value are solved, so that the stability of the formula is controlled, and the problems of color change and component separation of the formula are solved; the tranexamic acid, the 4-methoxysalicylic acid potassium and the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate have a synergistic effect, so that the whitening, spot-fading and firming essence disclosed by the invention has remarkable effects of whitening, spot-fading and firming skin.

2. The stability of the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate in the formula can be improved by adding enough polyalcohol, and if the palmitic acid bond is hydrolyzed, the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate can be dissolved in the polyalcohol and cannot be separated out in water.

3. The invention adopts the bis-diethyl diglycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester of the amphiphilic emollient which is hydrophilic and oleophylic, on one hand, the integral permeation effect of the formula is improved, on the other hand, the sticky feeling of the formula is reduced, and the moistening degree is increased.

Additional aspects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part in the description which follows, and in part will be obvious from the description, or may be learned by practice of the invention.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be further described and illustrated with reference to specific embodiments in order to more fully understand the technical content of the present invention; it is to be understood that the embodiments described below are only a few embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments; all other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

The features, benefits and advantages of the present invention will become apparent to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present disclosure.

All percentages, fractions and ratios are calculated on the total mass of the composition of the invention, unless otherwise indicated. The term "mass content" herein may be represented by the symbol "%".

The use of "including," "comprising," "containing," "having," or other variations thereof herein, is meant to encompass the non-exclusive inclusion, as such terms are not to be construed. The term "comprising" means that other steps and ingredients can be added that do not affect the end result. The term "comprising" also includes the terms "consisting of and" consisting essentially of. The compositions and methods/processes of the present invention can comprise, consist of, and consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations described herein.

The aromatic agent and the preservative are conventional additives in the cosmetic technical field, and the amount thereof can be added by those skilled in the art according to the specification of the type and content described in the present application and the amount added in the cosmetic, according to the design requirements of the product.

Examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7

Examples 1 to 4

The whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence of examples 1 to 4 was formulated according to the formulation composition in the following table 1.

Table 1: formulation composition (%) -of examples 1-4

Comparative examples 1 to 7

The whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence liquids of comparative examples 1-7 are prepared according to the formula composition in the following table 2.

Table 2: formulation composition of comparative examples 1 to 7 (%)

The preparation method of the whitening, spot-fading and tightening essence comprises the following steps:

(1) adding part of deionized water into the main pot, mixing part of polyol with thickener, stirring, heating to 80-90 deg.C, maintaining for 10-30 min to ensure transparent dissolution, and cooling;

(2) cooling to 55-60 deg.C, adding EDTA-4Na and trisodium citrate, stirring and dissolving to transparent;

(3) cooling to 50-55 deg.C, mixing with the rest polyalcohol with antiseptic, dissolving, adding, stirring, and dissolving to transparent;

(4) cooling to 40-45 deg.C, mixing solubilizer and aromatic, adding, stirring to dissolve to transparent;

(5) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding penetration enhancer, dissolving tranexamic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid potassium, and trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate (sodium ascorbyl phosphate or magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or sodium undecylenoyl phenylalanine) in the rest deionized water, respectively, adding one by one, stirring, and dissolving to transparent;

(6) and cooling to room temperature, sampling, detecting, discharging to obtain the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence.

In the preparation method, the specific dosage of part of deionized water and part of polyol can be adjusted according to actual production requirements, and the corresponding components can be dissolved, for example, part of deionized water in the step (1) accounts for 20-50% of the total amount of deionized water, and part of polyol in the step (2) accounts for 20-50% of the total amount of part of polyol.

The whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essence liquids of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were subjected to effect tests

Stability test

Performing high-low temperature/illumination/cold-heat cycle tests on the whitening, spot-lightening and tightening essences of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7, and monitoring whether the appearance of the product is turbid, whether crystallization or delamination occurs, whether discoloration occurs, whether peculiar smell exists or not under various test conditions to comprehensively evaluate the stability of the product; wherein the high and low temperature test conditions include 40 + -1 deg.C, 45 + -1 deg.C, 5 + -1 deg.C and-8 + -2 deg.C; the cold-hot circulation test is that the temperature is respectively kept at minus 8 plus or minus 2 ℃ and 40 plus or minus 1 ℃ for 24 hours to form a circulation; the test results are shown in tables 3 and 4.

Table 3: stability test results of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 2

Table 4: stability test results for ratios 3-7

From the test results of tables 3 and 4, it can be obtained: through a stability test for 6 months, the quality indexes of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-7 meet the requirements, and the color change of example 3, comparative example 1, comparative example 2, comparative column 5, comparative example 6 and comparative example 7 is acceptable; comparative examples 1 to 4 differ from examples 1 to 7 in the differences in the results of the subsequent tests.

Safety test

After the stability test for 6 months, the safety test was performed on the above samples.

The number of tested persons: two groups in total, 30 persons/group, one positive control group, were tested using SDS (1% in water); one group used the essences of examples 1-4 and comparative examples 1-7. Among them, 6 men and 54 women; minimum age: 24 years old, maximum age: age 45 years old; mean age 35.73 ± 7.15 years volunteer enrollment criteria;

the test method comprises the following steps: examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7 were subjected to patch test. Selecting a qualified spot tester, placing about 0.020-0.025 mL of a tested object into the spot tester by using a closed spot test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the tested object, removing the tested object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot is removed, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition).

The evaluation criteria are shown in Table 5 below.

Table 5: grading standard of adverse skin reactions

The test results are shown in table 6.

Table 6: safety test results of examples 1 to 4 and comparative examples 1 to 7

In table 6: 0.5 means that the grade of the adverse reaction is between 0 and 1, and the suspected erythema appears.

SDS (1% aqueous solution) caused a positive reaction in 30 subjects under the test conditions described above. No adverse reaction occurred in 30 subjects to the negative control; wherein, the suspected erythema of 2 cases appears in the example 3, the suspected erythema of 1 case appears in the comparative example 2, and the suspected erythema of 2 cases appears in the comparative example 3, but the two cases can be accepted; no adverse reaction occurred in examples 1,2 and 4 and comparative examples 1,4, 5, 6 and 7; combined data by comparison and analysis, the permeability of the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate increases the permeability of the whole formula, but the risk of irritation exists, so the addition amount is not more than 1%.

Efficacy testing

Skin whitening and speckle lightening efficacy verification

The instrument test is carried out according to a first method of a cosmetic freckle removing and whitening efficacy test method (2021) and an ultraviolet induced human skin blackening model freckle removing and whitening efficacy test method:

(1) the number of testers: healthy women 25-45 years old with 110 people, wherein the cheeks have a small amount of dominant sunburn/color spots and are divided into 11 groups, and each group comprises 10 people; each group used the same formulation; the total duration of the test was 1 month (4 weeks).

(2) Test area: face (left face blank, right face comparative or example), 0.5 g/time, 2 times/day (morning and evening), for 4 consecutive weeks.

(3) Note that: the same lotion is applied in the morning and evening, and other skin care steps can be performed according to the order of daily products, and the products with the same functions are stopped.

(4) VISIA CR takes facial photographs + SSA mask analysis images: before, week 1, week 2, week 3, and week 4, the face-cleaning standard was washed, and VISIA CR face-photograph was taken after sitting in a constant temperature and humidity room for 20 min.

The analysis method comprises the following steps:

selecting corresponding areas, selecting multiple points by using a COLOR for analysis to obtain values of L, a and b, and converting by using the following formula to obtain values of whiteness ITA, chroma c and delta L:

ITA°＝(Arc(L*-50)/b)×180/π

ITA degree (representing the overall change of chromaticity, the larger the ITA degree value, the lighter the skin color). The specific ITA ° degree range and corresponding skin color classification are shown in table 7.

Table 7: ITA ° range and classification

ITA degree range	Skin color classification
		55–90	Very shallow Very light
41–54	Light shallow
		28–40	Intermediate, etc
10–27	Tanned tanning
		-30–9	Brown color of Brown
-90–-29	Dark color of Dark

Among the effect indexes:

average value of ITA degrees of each group before the test is carried out;

average ITA degrees of each group after 1 month for the test

L*＝-1.05×(c*-24)…R＝1.000

ΔL^*＝[L^*(after 1 month of the test on the comparative or example products) -L^*(before starting the test)]-[L^*(blank product after 1 month of testing) -L^*(before starting the test)]；

For each group DeltaL^*Average value;

the test results are shown in table 8.

Table 8:

according to the results in table 8, the whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence disclosed by the invention has relatively remarkable whitening, spot-lightening and skin color brightening effects through the synergistic effect of the components, and the compounding effect of the three active substances, namely tranexamic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid potassium and trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is more obvious than that of the two active substances.

Further comparison shows that the active substances in the comparative example 4 and the active substances in the example 4 have the same addition amount, but the difference is that no penetration enhancer is added in the comparative example 4, so that the whitening and spot-lightening effects of the comparative example 4 are obviously reduced; the difference between the comparative example 4 and the example 1 is that the active matter addition amount of the comparative example 1 is higher, but the whitening and spot-lightening effect is not obvious because no penetration enhancer is added; comparative examples 5, 6 and 7 are different from example 4 in that trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is respectively changed into sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and the addition amounts are consistent, but the overall whitening and spot-lightening effects are also greatly different, so that the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate adopted by the invention is different from other ascorbic acid derivatives, and has remarkable whitening and spot-lightening effects.

And (3) firming effect verification:

the test method comprises the following steps: referring to a cosmetic wrinkle-resistant efficacy test method (T/ZHCA006-2019), a picture grading (seven-grade method) evaluation method is performed:

the number of tested persons: 77 persons who selected the same level of wrinkles on the left and right external canthus from 110 persons who participated in the first test of whitening and spot-lightening efficacy; each group had 7 persons, and each group used the same formula; the total duration of the test was 1 month (4 weeks).

Test area: the external canthus (left external canthus blank, right external canthus using comparative example or example) was used in an amount of 0.1 g/time, and the number of times of use was 2 times/day (morning and evening), and the application was continued for 4 weeks.

Note that: the same lotion is applied in the morning and evening, and other skin care steps can be performed according to the order of daily products, and the products with the same functions are stopped.

VISIAC image acquisition and supporting software selects a corresponding area, and analysis software is used for measuring and calculating the total volume of wrinkles at the wrinkle target analysis position, wherein the calculation formula is as follows:

in the formula:

average of the difference in total volume of wrinkles on the side of the sample applied, in cubic millimeters (mm)²)；

Average value of initial value of total volume of wrinkles on sample application side, in cubic millimeters (mm)²)；

Average of the measurements of the total volume of wrinkles measured at different points in time after application of the sample, in cubic millimeters (mm)²)；

In the formula:

average of the difference in total volume of the blank side wrinkles in cubic millimeters (mm)²)；

Blank side, average of total volume of wrinkles measurements in cubic millimeters (mm) at different measurement time points²)；

Blank side, average of initial values of total volume of wrinkles in cubic millimeters (mm)²)；

ΔV_{Sample (A)}＝(V₀－V_{Sample (A)}t)

Mean percentage reduction of wrinkles per group.

The test results are shown in table 9 below:

compared with the control side, the difference value of the measured value of the sample smearing side is obviously different, and the delta V is greater than 0, which indicates that the tested sample has the effects of resisting wrinkles and tightening;

compared with the control side, the difference value of the measurement value of the smearing side of the sample is not obviously different, and the delta V is less than or equal to 0, which indicates that the tested sample has no anti-wrinkle and compact effects;

table 9: test results

As seen from the test results of table 9, the whitening, spot-lightening and firming essence of the present invention has a significant firming effect; from examples 1-4, it can be seen that the effect increases with increasing amounts of trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate added: example 1< example 4< example 2< example 3; comparative example 1 is compared to example 3 in that trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is not added and thus comparative example 1 has no tightening effect; comparative examples 2 and 3 are different from example 3 in that 4-methoxysalicylic acid is not added in comparative example 2, tranexamic acid is not added in comparative example 3, the tightening effects of comparative example 2 and comparative example 3 are not greatly different on the premise that the addition amount of trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is consistent, but the tightening effects are remarkably reduced compared with example 3, so that the potassium 4-methoxysalicylate and tranexamic acid can promote the tightening effect of the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate, and the three active components have synergistic effects.

Further comparison can be made, the difference of the comparative example 4 to the example 1 is that the addition amount of the active substance of the comparative example 4 is higher, but the tightening effect is not obvious because no penetration enhancer is added; comparative examples 5, 6 and 7 are different from example 4 in that trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate is respectively changed into sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and sodium undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and the addition amounts of the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate and the magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and the sodium undecylenoyl phenylalanine are consistent, so that the difference of the tightening effects of the samples is large, and therefore, the trisodium ascorbyl palmitate phosphate adopted by the invention has a remarkable tightening effect in the invention, different from other ascorbic acid derivatives.

Through the above experimental steps of stability test, safety test and effect verification, the formula discoloration, safety risk, ionic compatibility weakness of active substances and formula cost are comprehensively considered, and example 4 is a preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the above embodiment does not limit the present invention in any way, and any simple modification, equivalent change and modification of the above embodiments according to the technical essence of the present invention do not depart from the technical scheme of the present invention, and still fall within the scope of the technical scheme of the present invention.

The technical solutions provided by the embodiments of the present invention are described in detail above, and the principles and embodiments of the present invention are explained herein by using specific examples, and the descriptions of the embodiments are only used to help understanding the principles of the embodiments of the present invention; meanwhile, for a person skilled in the art, according to the embodiments of the present invention, there may be variations in the specific implementation manners and application ranges, and in summary, the content of the present description should not be construed as a limitation to the present invention.