阅读说明：本技术 羊绒羊毛抗起毛球整理方法及羊绒羊毛针织物 (Cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method and cashmere and wool knitted fabric ) 是由 吴亚容 周翔 邢志奇 张烨 孔祥锋 孙庆诚 于 2021-09-17 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种羊绒羊毛抗起毛球整理方法及用该方法处理得到的羊绒羊毛织物,属于毛纺行业羊绒织物染整加工技术领域,处理步骤如下：将起毛球后的羊绒羊毛织物浸渍于含有还原剂和尿素的预处理液中,还原剂为5-15% omf,尿素为25-35 g/L；处理一段时间,水洗,再浸渍于蛋白酶溶液中处理,之后水洗烘干；采用该方法处理得到抗起毛球防毡缩的羊绒羊毛织物。本发明所用还原处理条件缓和,纤维本体未受损伤,纤维强力下降在可接受范围,织物手感未受明显影响；再联合蛋白酶对羊绒鳞片去除,起毛起球性能得到明显改善。本发明能够在不损伤羊绒本体性能和较好保留鳞片的前提下,改善羊绒织物起毛起球性能,提高羊绒针织物抗起毛起球等级。(The invention discloses a cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method and a cashmere and wool fabric obtained by the method, belonging to the technical field of cashmere fabric dyeing and finishing processing in the wool spinning industry, and the processing steps are as follows: dipping the fluffed cashmere and wool fabric into a pretreatment solution containing a reducing agent and urea, wherein the reducing agent is 5-15% of omf, and the urea is 25-35 g/L; treating for a period of time, washing with water, soaking in protease solution for treatment, and then washing with water and drying; the cashmere and wool fabric with the anti-pilling and anti-felting functions is obtained by adopting the method. The reduction treatment conditions used in the invention are mild, the fiber body is not damaged, the fiber strength is reduced within an acceptable range, and the fabric hand feeling is not obviously influenced; and the combination of protease removes scales of cashmere, and the fluffing and pilling performance is obviously improved. The invention can improve the pilling performance of the cashmere fabric and improve the anti-pilling grade of the cashmere knitted fabric on the premise of not damaging the cashmere body performance and better retaining scales.)

1. A cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method is characterized by comprising the following steps:

dipping the fluffed cashmere and wool fabric into a pretreatment solution containing a reducing agent and urea for treatment for a period of time, wherein the reducing agent is 5-15% of omf, and the urea is 25-35 g/L;

after pretreatment, washing the cashmere and wool fabric with water, and then soaking the cashmere and wool fabric in a protease solution for treatment;

heating to 80-90 deg.C, treating for 10-15min, and inactivating protease;

and washing and drying the cashmere and wool fabrics treated by the protease.

2. The cashmere wool anti-pilling finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: the reducing agent is NaHSO₃。

3. The cashmere wool anti-pilling finishing method of claim 1, wherein the conditions of immersion treatment of the cashmere wool fabric in the pretreatment solution are as follows: bath ratio of 1: 10-1: 60, the pH value of the pretreatment liquid is 7.0-9.0, the treatment temperature is 30-50 ℃, and the treatment time is 20-50 min.

4. The cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method of claim 1, wherein the conditions of the cashmere and wool fabric in the protease solution are as follows: bath ratio of 1: 10-1: 60, the pH value of the protease solution is 5.5-8.0, the treatment temperature is 50-70 ℃, and the treatment time is 20-60 min.

5. The cashmere wool anti-pilling finishing method according to claim 4, characterized in that: the bath ratio of the cashmere and wool fabric to the protease solution is 1: 30.

6. the cashmere wool anti-pilling finishing method according to claim 1, characterized in that: the dosage of the protease in the protease solution is 0.01-0.15 g/L.

7. A cashmere wool fabric, characterized in that: applying the cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method of any one of claims 1 to 6 to obtain the anti-pilling and anti-felting cashmere and wool fabric.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of dyeing and finishing of wool fabrics, and particularly relates to a cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method and a cashmere and wool knitted fabric.

Background

Cashmere is a precious natural textile raw material. When the scale layer structure on the surface of the cashmere fiber is subjected to the friction action of various external forces and the outside, the oriented friction effect (DFE) is easily formed, so that the cashmere knitted fabric is easy to fluff and pilling in the wearing process, and the DFE is a problem which is always pending in the cashmere processing industry and is a main bottleneck for restricting the improvement of the cashmere knitted fabric.

At present, the fluffing and pilling of knitted fabrics are treated by methods such as oxidation, reduction, enzyme treatment and the like, but the methods all damage the scale layer on the cashmere surface to a certain extent so as to realize the improvement of the fluffing and pilling resistance of the cashmere.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide an anti-pilling finishing method for cashmere knitted fabric, which aims to solve the technical problem that a stirring mechanism in the prior art has poor sealing performance in a high-pressure environment, can realize strict sealing between high-pressure gas and a rotating shaft, and has the functions of automatically adjusting compression sealing along with the changes of microwave intensity and gas pressure, preventing the leakage of the microwave and the high-pressure gas in a box body and the like.

In order to solve the technical problems, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:

a cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method comprises the following steps:

dipping the fluffed cashmere and wool fabric into a pretreatment solution containing a reducing agent and urea for treatment for a period of time, wherein the reducing agent is 5-15% of omf, and the urea is 25-35 g/L;

after pretreatment, washing the cashmere and wool fabric with water, and then soaking the cashmere and wool fabric in a protease solution for treatment;

heating to 80-90 deg.C, treating for 10-15min, and inactivating protease;

and washing and drying the cashmere and wool fabrics treated by the protease.

Preferably, the impregnation treatment conditions of the cashmere wool fabric in the pretreatment solution are as follows: bath ratio of 1: 10-1: 60, the pH value of the pretreatment liquid is 7.0-9.0, the treatment temperature is 30-50 ℃, and the treatment time is 20-50 min.

Preferably, the treatment conditions of the cashmere and wool fabric in the protease solution are as follows: bath ratio of 1: 10-1: 60, the pH value of the protease solution is 5.5-8.0, the treatment temperature is 50-70 ℃, and the treatment time is 20-60 min.

Preferably, the bath ratio of the cashmere fabric to the protease solution is 1: 30.

preferably, the dosage of the protease in the protease solution is 0.01-0.15 g/L.

A cashmere wool fabric is obtained by applying the finishing method.

The working principle of the invention is as follows: NaHSO₃The effect on cashmere is closely related to the concentration thereof, and contains high-concentration NaHSO₃NaHSO of₃The urea system is easier to diffuse into the wool fiber, so that the disulfide bond in the fiber is greatly reduced; lower concentration of NaHSO₃The system resulted in low diffusion of the chemical into the wool fibers, with only slight damage observed on the fiber surface. Adding low-concentration NaHSO₃The combination of urea and protease treatment can not only allow protease to fully play a role, but also improve the pilling grade (grade) of the cashmere knitted fabric on the premise of not damaging the cashmere body performance and well retaining scales.

Adopt the produced beneficial effect of above-mentioned technical scheme to lie in: compared with the prior art, the invention pretreats the cashmere and wool fabrics by the matching of the reducing agent and the urea, the reduction treatment condition is mild, the fiber body is not damaged, the fiber strength is reduced within an acceptable range, and the fabric hand feeling is not obviously influenced; and the combination of protease removes scales of cashmere, and the fluffing and pilling performance is obviously improved. The invention can improve the pilling performance of the cashmere fabric and improve the anti-pilling grade of the cashmere knitted fabric on the premise of not damaging the cashmere body performance and better retaining scales.

Drawings

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the accompanying drawings and specific embodiments.

FIG. 1 is an infrared spectrum of cashmere fibers before and after treatment of cashmere and wool fabrics according to the present invention;

FIG. 2 shows the spectral reflectance of cashmere fibers before and after treatment of cashmere wool fabrics according to the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a scanning electron microscope image of cashmere fibers in an untreated cashmere-wool fabric;

FIG. 4 is a scanning electron microscope image of cashmere fibers of the cashmere and wool fabric of example 2;

FIG. 5 is a scanning electron microscope image of cashmere fibers of the cashmere-wool fabric in comparative example 1;

FIG. 6 is a scanning electron microscope image of cashmere fibers of the cashmere-wool fabric of example 10;

in fig. 1 and 2: a-example 2, b-comparative example 1, c-example 10.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention are clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

The invention provides a cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method which comprises the following steps: impregnating the fluffed cashmere and wool fabric in a fabric containing NaHSO₃In the pretreatment solution of reducing agent and urea, treatment oneAnd (3) washing after a period of time, soaking in a protease solution for treatment, and then washing and drying to obtain the anti-pilling anti-felting cashmere wool fabric.

The invention also provides a wool fabric which is resistant to pilling and felting, and the wool fabric which is resistant to pilling and felting and is obtained by the treatment method is within the protection range of the invention.

The following specific examples are used to illustrate the invention in comparison with other treatment methods:

examples 1 to 9 are the use of NaHSO₃The method for treating the cashmere knitted fabric by the urea reduction treatment comprises the following specific contents:

cashmere knitted fabric NaHSO₃A urea reduction treatment method comprises the following steps:

putting cashmere knitted fabric into the solution of NaHSO₃And urea, adjusting the pH value of the treating fluid to 7.5, adjusting the bath ratio to 1:30, and treating for a certain time at a certain temperature. Taking out the treated fabric, washing with clear water, and drying at 80 ℃. The dosage, treatment time and treatment temperature of NaHSO3 and urea in the above step are shown in Table 1:

TABLE 1 NaHSO₃Process parameters for treating cashmere fabric by urea

Examples 10-12 are specific examples using the present invention:

examples 10, 11: a cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method comprises the following steps:

putting cashmere wool fabric into solution with 10% of omf NaHSO₃And 30g/L of urea, adjusting the pH value of the pretreatment solution to 7.5, adjusting the bath ratio to 1:30, and treating at 30 ℃ for 40 min. Taking out the treated fabric, and washing with clear water. Then putting the mixture into a treatment solution dissolved with 0.05g/L protease (example 10) or 0.1g/L protease (example 11), adjusting the pH value of the treatment solution to 6.5, treating the mixture at a bath ratio of 1:30 for 30min at 60 ℃, and then heating the mixture to 85 ℃ for 10min (inactivating the protease); finally, the treated fabric is taken out,washing with clear water, and drying at 80 deg.C.

The process parameters of the cashmere and wool anti-pilling finishing method in the examples 12 and 13 are shown in the following table 2:

comparative examples 1 to 2

A protease treatment method for cashmere knitted fabric comprises the following steps:

the cashmere knitted fabric is put into a treatment fluid dissolved with 0.05g/L protease (comparative example 1) or 0.1g/L protease (comparative example 2), the pH value of the treatment fluid is adjusted to 6.5, the treatment fluid is processed at a bath ratio of 1:30 for 30min at 60 ℃, and then the treatment fluid is heated to 85 ℃ for 10min (protease inactivation). Taking out the treated fabric, washing with clear water, and drying at 80 ℃.

Comparative examples 1-2 differ from examples 10-11 in that no reductive pretreatment was performed prior to the protease treatment.

When the protease is used for treating cashmere, the lipoid structure of the cashmere scale surface layer and a large number of disulfide bonds in the scale outer layer restrict the hydrolysis of the protease on the scale, and the treatment effect of the protease is influenced. Therefore, the cashmere needs to be pretreated, and the key point of the pretreatment is to destroy disulfide bonds on the outer layer of the scale.

And NaHSO₃Is an effective reducing agent for removing disulfide bonds, and can reduce disulfide bonds in protein molecules into sulfhydryl groups under proper conditions. In order to make the disulfide bonds more accessible to the reducing agent, the noncovalent bonds of the keratin macromolecule steric structure are broken beforehand or during the treatment, while urea effectively breaks the hydrogen bonds.

Therefore, the method can control the damage of reduction treatment and enzyme treatment on the cashmere fiber body, limit the reaction in the scale layer, and improve the pilling performance of the cashmere fabric within the acceptable range of fabric strength reduction.

The cashmere knitted fabrics obtained in examples 1 to 11 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were subjected to performance tests and characterization by the following methods:

1. strength of single fiber

According to GB/T13835.5-2009 rabbit hair fibre test methods part 5: single fiber breaking strength and breaking elongation, the single fiber strength of cashmere fibers was measured by yg (b)008E type electronic single fiber strength tester (luzhou darong textile instruments ltd), and 100 fibers were measured for each sample, and the average value was taken.

2. Effect of directional friction of fibers

The friction coefficient mu of the fiber in the clockwise and anticlockwise flake directions is tested by an XCF-1A type fiber friction coefficient tester (Shanghai Lipu applied science and technology research institute)_Cis-trans、μ_{Inverse direction}The Directional Friction Effect (DFE) was calculated and 30 fibers were measured per sample. Directional friction effect calculation formula:

3. pilling resistance

According to GB/T4802.3-2008 & third part pilling box method for testing pilling performance of textile fabrics, YG (B) 511-III rolling box type pilling instrument (Wenzhou Darong textile apparatus Co., Ltd.) is adopted to test the pilling level of cashmere knitted fabric, and the knitted fabric is turned over 7200 r.

4. Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM)

According to a sample preparation method of GB/T14593-.

5. Infrared Spectrum (FTIR)

Infrared spectroscopy of the fiber samples was performed using a NICOLET iS10 Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (Seimer Feishell science) at a test wave number of 4000-^-1。

6. Spectral reflectance

According to GB/T32134-.

Table 3 is a comparison of the single fiber strength, directional friction effect and pilling resistance of the fabrics of examples 1-9 and untreated cashmere.

TABLE 3 NaHSO₃/performance of reducing cashmere by urea

From the fluffing and pilling grade of the treated cashmere fabric, NaHSO₃The/urea reduction treatment can improve the fluffing and pilling grade of the cashmere fabric by 0.5-1 grade. In 9 examples, the higher fiber strength was consistent with the better pilling treatment conditions, indicating NaHSO₃The urea reduction treatment is beneficial to improving the pilling performance if the damage to the fiber body can be controlled while the fiber scale layer is damaged. The static and dynamic directional friction effects of the fibers show the same trend, and the reduction of the directional friction effect is large in general, so that the anti-pilling effect is good in the examples 2 and 5.

Table 3 shows the comparative table of the strength and pilling resistance of the treated cashmere fibers of examples 10 to 11 and comparative examples 1 to 2.

TABLE 3 NaHSO₃Performance of/urea + protease, protease single treatment and untreated cashmere

Test specimen	Single fiber strength/CN	Fabric pilling progression (grade)
			Example 10	4.48	3-3.5
Example 11	4.44	3.5
			Comparative example 1	4.30	2.5
Comparative example 2	4.23	2.5-3
			Untreated	5.20	2-2.5

As can be seen from comparative examples 1 and 2, the anti-pilling performance of the cashmere fabric is not obviously improved when the cashmere fabric is treated by the protease alone. Because the surfaces of the cashmere scales contain ester-like layers with strong hydrophobicity, proteins are connected into a net structure by a large number of disulfide bonds in the outer layers of the scales below the ester-like layers, and when the cashmere is directly treated by protease, the enzyme is difficult to permeate and diffuse in the outer layers of the scales, so that the damage effect on the scales is not great, and the effect of resisting fuzzing and pilling is limited.

From examples 10 and 11, it can be seen that the reaction is carried out by NaHSO₃After urea reduction pretreatment and protease treatment, the fluffing and pilling grade of the cashmere and wool fabric reaches 3-3.5 grade or 3.5 grade, which can be improved by 1-1.5 grade compared with the untreated sample and is better than that of the cashmere and wool fabric only using NaHSO₃Urea treatment, which indicates NaHSO₃The urea pretreatment can increase the treatment effect of protease on cashmere fabric.

Scanning electron microscopes of the untreated cashmere fibers obtained in example 2, comparative example 1 and example 10 are shown in fig. 3 to 6.

As can be seen from the SEM image of the cashmere fibers in fig. 3, the surface of the untreated cashmere fibers has the scales which are annularly overlapped, and the scales are complete. In FIG. 4, the implementationIn example 2 by NaHSO₃The fiber scales of the urea treatment can be damaged and stripped slightly, and the fiber is smoother than the untreated fiber; in FIG. 6, in example 10, NaHSO is passed through₃Urea reduction pretreatment and protease treatment are adopted to obviously passivate cashmere scales; in fig. 5, the protease-treated fiber scales of comparative example 1 slightly lifted.

The infrared spectra of the cashmere fibers obtained in example 2, example 10 and comparative example 1 are shown in fig. 1.

As can be seen in fig. 1, the comparative example 1 fiber showed no significant difference in ir spectrum from untreated fiber, which also indicates that protease treatment alone had limited effect on fiber flaking; example 2 treatment with NaHSO₃Urea reduction treatment and example 10 treatment with NaHSO₃Cashmere treated by urea reduction pretreatment and protease treatment, 1074cm^-1The characteristic absorption peak of cystine disappears at 1019cm^-1A new peak appears, which is believed to be the oscillation of the cysteine sulfonate produced by oxidation of-SH, indicating that the reduction treatment breaks the scale cystine disulfide bond, which facilitates protease penetration of the cashmere scales.

The spectral reflectance of the cashmere fibers obtained in example 2, example 10 and comparative example 1 is shown in fig. 2.

As can be seen from FIG. 2, the cashmere wool fabric of example 2 is subjected to NaHSO₃After urea treatment, the spectral reflectance of the fiber is higher than that of the untreated cashmere fiber, which indicates that the scale on the surface of the fiber is damaged and the fiber is smoother than that of the untreated cashmere fiber; in the sample treated with protease only in comparative example 1, the spectral reflectance of cashmere fibers is lower than that of untreated fibers, and the fiber surface is rougher than that of the untreated fibers and is related to scale lifting; the reduction pretreatment is combined with the protease treatment, so that the reflectivity is higher and is related to the passivation of the scale layer on the surface of the fiber. These phenomena are consistent with the conclusions of the anti-pilling assay.

As illustrated by the above examples, the NaHSO of the present invention was used₃The method combining urea reduction treatment and protease treatment can achieve good effect of improving fuzzing and pilling resistance of cashmere knitted fabric, and the method is NaHSO₃The effect of protease treatment after urea treatment is better than that of two independent treatments; by controlling NaSHO₃UrineThe cellulose concentration, the treatment temperature and the treatment time can be accepted, the fiber strength can be reduced acceptably, and the fabric hand feeling is not influenced. The invention can improve the pilling performance of the cashmere fabric and improve the anti-pilling grade of the cashmere knitted fabric on the premise of not damaging the cashmere body performance and better retaining scales.

The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents and improvements made within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included therein.

In the description above, numerous specific details are set forth in order to provide a thorough understanding of the present invention, but the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms than described herein, and it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.