阅读说明：本技术 一种毛发保湿柔顺剂及其应用 (Hair moisturizing softener and application thereof ) 是由 陈建英 韩秀云 王丽丽 韩鹏 潘继飞 高瑞 薛松 齐宁 祝美华 于 2021-10-21 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明提供一种用于毛发护理的保湿柔顺组合物,属于化妆品技术领域。本发明组合物的特征在于含有0.1％～20％的阳离子化透明质酸和/或其盐,和0.01％～10％的乳酸和/或乳酸钠,还可含有玻璃酸二甲基硅烷醇复合物和/或泛醇以及化妆品常用防腐剂。本发明组合物用于制备毛发洗护产品具有显著的保湿、润滑和柔顺作用。(The invention provides a moisturizing and softening composition for hair care, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The composition of the invention is characterized by comprising 0.1-20% of cationized hyaluronic acid and/or salt thereof, 0.01-10% of lactic acid and/or sodium lactate, and also comprising a dimethiconol hyaluronate compound and/or panthenol and a preservative commonly used in cosmetics. The composition provided by the invention has remarkable moisturizing, lubricating and softening effects when being used for preparing hair washing and caring products.)

1. A hair moisturizing softener is characterized by comprising:

0.1-20% of cationized glass acid and/or salt thereof, and 0.01-10% of lactic acid and/or salt thereof;

wherein the cationic substitution degree of the cationized glass acid and/or the salt thereof is 0.1 to 2.0.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationized hyaluronic acid and/or the salt thereof has a degree of cationic substitution of 0.4 to 1.5, preferably 0.6 to 1.0.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cationized hyaluronic acid and/or salt thereof has an average molecular weight of 10kDa to 1500kDa, preferably 40kDa to 1000kDa, more preferably 100kDa to 600 kDa.

4. The composition according to claims 1 to 3, wherein the cationized hyaluronic acid and/or salt thereof is selected from one or a combination of more than two of hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride potassium hyaluronate and/or hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium hyaluronate.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lactic acid and/or a salt thereof is one or a combination of two or more selected from the group consisting of DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, L-lactic acid and/or a salt thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a dimethylsilanol hyaluronic acid complex and/or panthenol.

7. The composition according to claims 1 and 6, characterized by further comprising a cosmetically acceptable preservative.

8. Composition according to claims 1, 6 and 7, characterized in that it is embodied in the form of a gel and/or a solution.

9. Use of the compositions according to claims 1, 6 and 7 for the preparation of hair care cosmetics.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and relates to a hair moisturizing and softening composition containing cationized hyaluronic acid and lactic acid and application thereof in cosmetics.

Background

Hyaluronic Acid (HA), also known as hyaluronic acid, is a chain polyanionic mucopolysaccharide composed of (1-beta-4) D-glucuronic acid and (1-beta-3) N-acetyl-D-glucosamine disaccharide units repeatedly linked. HA is one of the main components constituting the skin extracellular matrix, and is widely used in cosmetics because of its remarkable lubricating and moisturizing effects. Introduction of cationic groups into polysaccharide molecules can improve the moisture absorption and retention properties of the latter [ references: CN101316864, CN101715457, CN101343293, CN101422415 and CN101367880], wherein CN101316864 and CN101715457 disclose hyaluronic acid introduced with cationic groups, which can also improve the adsorption of hyaluronic acid on the surface of hair and skin, thereby exerting better moisturizing effect.

Lactic acid is an intermediate product generated in the metabolic process of glucose in the body, and commercial lactic acid is an organic acid obtained by fermentation and refining of sugar-containing plants (such as corn and beet), and is widely applied to the fields of food, medicine, cosmetics, tobacco and the like due to good biocompatibility. Lactic acid is one of the main components in the human skin stratum corneum, is a natural moisturizing factor, and has a certain antimicrobial effect. In cosmetics, in addition to being a humectant, it can be used as a moisturizer, a skin renewal agent (synergistic whitening), a PH regulator, an acne remover, a tartar remover.

The hair is an accessory of the skin and comprises a hair shaft exposed on the surface of the skin, a hair root embedded in the skin and a hair bulb with the tail end of the hair root expanded into a scallion head shape. The normal hair shaft is a needle-like keratinous fiber tissue, consisting of the cuticle (scales), cortex (hair core) and medulla. The transparent scaly hair cuticle is also called as hair flake, the surface of which is provided with a natural hair protective film formed by grease and water secreted by a grease gland of a hair root, and the change of the pH value influences the opening and closing of the hair flake and shows different glossiness and softness of the hair.

The water and oil balance of the natural hair protecting film can be damaged due to insufficient water in the hair cuticle, which is the main reason for dry hair, fragility and easy breakage. Maintaining the moisture content of the hair cuticle can make the hair smooth, soft and elastic. The moisture-keeping component keeps the water-oil balance and the constant pH value of the natural hair cuticle protective film by absorbing water, and resists the changes of physical (humidity) and chemical (alkaline harmful substances) in the external environment, thereby achieving the effects of keeping moisture, moistening, smoothing, recovering elasticity and the like, and playing an important role in the function and quality of the hair washing and protecting product. The adhesion of moisture-retaining components to the hair cuticle is increased, and the hair cuticle can stay on the surface of hair for a long time to maintain the natural protective film of hair, thereby further improving the function of the cosmetic.

According to the invention, the cationized hyaluronic acid and the lactic acid are combined as two moisturizing components, and the two moisturizing components have synergistic effect, so that the hair moisturizing, lubricating and softening effects are better compared with the effects of single use, and the composition provided by the invention is used for preparing hair washing and protecting products, and has more remarkable moisturizing, softening and repairing effects.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a moisturizing and softening composition containing cationized hyaluronic acid and lactic acid and application of the composition in the cosmetic fields of hair moisturizing, softening, repairing and the like.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:

a moisturizing and softening composition is characterized by at least comprising two components of cationized glass acid and lactic acid. Wherein the cationized glass acid can be cationized glass acid and/or salt thereof, and the content (concentration range) is 0.1-20%, preferably the cation content (concentration range) is 0.5-10%, and more preferably the content (concentration range) is 1-5%; the lactic acid can be lactic acid and/or salt thereof, and the content (concentration range) is 0.01-10%; the content (concentration range) is preferably 0.1% to 5%, and more preferably 0.5% to 2.5%.

The cationic degree of substitution of the above-mentioned cationized glass acid and/or salt thereof is in the range of 0.05 to 2.0, preferably 0.4 to 1.5, and more preferably 0.6 to 1.0. The "cationic substitution degree" refers to the number of cationic groups (quaternary ammonium groups) per disaccharide unit molecule constituting the hyaluronic acid and/or salt thereof, i.e., the molar ratio of the cationic groups (quaternary ammonium groups) to the disaccharide unit of the hyaluronic acid and/or salt thereof.

The above-mentioned cationized hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof has an average molecular weight of 10kDa to 1500kDa, preferably 40kDa to 1000kDa, more preferably 100kDa to 600 kDa.

The cationized glass acid and/or salt thereof is selected from one or more of hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride glass acid, hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride potassium glass acid and/or hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium glass acid, preferably hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride glass acid and/or hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium glass acid, more preferably hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium glass acid. The cationized hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof may be a product obtained by substituting a part of hydrogen atoms on carboxyl groups of a molecule of hyaluronic acid with a cationic group, a product obtained by substituting a part of hydrogen atoms on hydroxyl groups of a molecule of hyaluronic acid with a cationic group, or a mixture of the two products. It can be obtained by a known production method, for example, by dispersing a hyaluronic acid and/or a salt thereof in an alkaline aqueous medium and reacting the resultant with a quaternary ammonium salt (CN 101715457 and CN 101422415); the quaternary ammonium salt and the glass acid and/or the salt thereof are dissolved in an alkaline aqueous solution to react (CN 101316864), or a small amount of catalyst is added to improve the substitution degree (CN 107556402 and CN 107739417).

The lactic acid and/or a salt thereof is selected from the group consisting of DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid and/or L-lactic acid and a salt thereof, preferably one or a combination of two or more of DL-sodium lactate, D-sodium lactate and/or L-sodium lactate, and more preferably L-sodium lactate. L-lactic acid and/or L-sodium lactate can be selected from sugar-containing plants (such as semen Maydis and beet) by fermentation and refining.

The moisturizing and softening composition is characterized by further comprising a silanol vitriol compound and/or panthenol. Wherein, the dimethylsilanol hyaluronate compound can be a compound of dimethylsilanol and hyaluronic acid, a compound of dimethylsilanediol and hyaluronic acid, or a mixture of the two. The preparation method can be known, for example, mixing a hyaluronic acid solution and a sodium silanol solution for reaction, adjusting pH with a cation exchange resin to obtain a complex aqueous solution (FR2561915), mixing a silanol aqueous solution and a hyaluronic acid aqueous solution in proportion (EP0289366), reacting and combining an organosilicon compound and hyaluronic acid in water and ethanol solution, evaporating the solvent (EP0867445), or reacting chlorosilane and hyaluronic acid suspended in an organic solution, and precipitating to obtain a solid complex (CN 103450368). Wherein panthenol is selected from DL-panthenol, D-panthenol and/or L-panthenol, preferably D-panthenol. D-panthenol is also called dexpanthenol and provitamin B5 and has a chemical name of (R) - (+) -2, 4-dihydroxy-N- (3-hydroxypropyl) -3, 3-dimethylbutanamide. D-panthenol can be obtained from chemical synthesis or microbial fermentation extraction, and comprises D-panthenol obtained by reacting D-pantolactone obtained by microbial enzyme method or chemical method with 3-aminopropanol.

The moisturizing and softening composition is characterized in that the content of the dimethylsilyl celloate compound is 0.05-20%, preferably 0.1-10%, and more preferably 0.5-5%.

The moisturizing and softening composition is characterized in that the content of panthenol is 0.05-5%, preferably 0.1-20%, preferably 0.5-10%, and more preferably 1-5%.

The moisturizing and softening composition is characterized by further comprising a preservative commonly used for cosmetics, and is selected from one or a mixture of more than two of hexamidine di (hydroxyethyl sulfonate) salt, diazo alkyl urea, bis (hydroxymethyl) imidazolidinyl urea, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, propyl p-hydroxybenzoate, p-methylbenzyl alcohol, 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, 3- [2- (ethylhexyl) oxy ] -1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, butanediol, phenethyl alcohol, caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.

The moisturizing softening composition is characterized by being embodied in the form of gel and/or solution. Namely, the product form can be gel, solution or mixture of gel and solution. When the average molecular weight and/or the content of the cationic hyaluronic acid and/or the salt thereof in the composition is lower, the product can be in a solution state; the product may be in the gel state when the average molecular weight of the cationic hyaluronic acid and/or salt thereof in the composition is relatively high and/or the content of the cationic hyaluronic acid and/or salt thereof is relatively high.

The moisturizing softening composition can be used for preparing moisturizing, softening and repairing cosmetics for hair.

The composition of the present invention can be applied directly to body hair and beard (without excluding the local skin surface around the corresponding tissue), or can be diluted with purified water or added with ingredients commonly used in cosmetics to be formulated into various forms such as solution, gel, cream or lotion. Such as shampoos, conditioners, hair creams, hair lotions, shaving creams, shaving foams, shaving lotions, moisturizing sprays, styling gels, depilatory creams, and the like, for cleansing and caring body surface hair and beard.

The composition of the invention is applied to body surface hair and beard and can play a role in moisturizing, softening and preventing or repairing hair damage caused by excessive scalding and dyeing.

Drawings

FIG. 1 Friction resistance curves for combing healthy hair with moisturizing sprays (I: purified water; II: formulation A; III: formulation B; IV: formulation C; V: formulation D; VI: formulation E; VII: formulation F) for different samples: after the healthy hair is nursed by moisturizing spray prepared by the formula of the hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium hyaluronate, the lactic acid, the sodium lactate, the dimethyl silanol hyaluronate compound and the panthenol, a friction resistance curve measured by a hair combing instrument shows that the friction resistance of the hair nursed by the compositions (III-VII) is obviously reduced when combing the hair compared with the hair nursed by the hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium hyaluronate (II) and the purified water (I), and the compositions can obviously improve the softness of the hair.

Detailed Description

The following examples are intended to better illustrate the invention without limiting it.

Example 1 ingredients and amounts (g) per 100g of moisturizing softening composition are given in the table below.

TABLE 1 ingredients and amounts (%, g/g) of moisturizing softening compositions of different formulations

According to the formula of the composition, the following composition is prepared by adopting hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium hyaluronate with different degrees of substitution and different molecular weights, so that a product in a solution state or a gel state can be obtained.

TABLE 2 State of the different formulations of the composition

Hair and beard (without excluding the local skin surface around the corresponding tissue), the composition of the present invention may also be diluted with purified water, or added with ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, to be formulated into various forms of solution, gel, cream or lotion, etc., for cleansing and caring the body surface hair and beard.

For example: the composition 1-1 can be added into a conventional hair care emulsion formula according to the adding amount of 10 parts; the composition 1-1 can be added into conventional shampoo according to the adding amount of 5 parts; the compositions 1-3 can be diluted by 3 times with purified water to prepare moisturizing spray for hair; the composition 1-4 can be added into the conventional styling gel formula according to the addition amount of 3 parts; compositions 1-5 may be added to a conventional shave lotion formulation in 2-part additions.

Example 2 Care Effect of different formulations of moisturizing softening compositions on Hair

Selecting hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium hyaluronate with the average molecular weight of 450kDa and the degree of substitution of 0.62, respectively adding lactic acid, sodium lactate, a dimethyl silanol glass compound and panthenol to prepare 6 samples, respectively diluting the samples by 5 times with purified water, and filling the diluted samples into a spray bottle for later use.

Hair combing test

A large bundle of healthy long hair is taken, rubbed and washed by common shampoo sold in the market for 1min, a large amount of clear water is washed until no foam exists, the hair is dried by a blower and divided into 7 small bundles, purified water and different moisture-retention spray mist are respectively sprayed for 3 pressing, and after gentle 1min, the hair is placed in a hair combing instrument to measure the frictional resistance, and the results are as follows.

TABLE 4 maximum frictional resistance of different sample moisturizing sprays to combing healthy hair

According to combing test data, the maximum combing resistance of the test group samples after the spray treatment of the healthy hair is obviously reduced compared with that of a control group (purified water), and the maximum combing resistance of the test group samples after the spray treatment of the healthy hair is ranked by A, B, C, D, E and F according to the magnitude.

The above results show that: according to the technical scheme, a sample prepared from hydroxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride sodium hyaluronate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, a compound of glass acid dimethyl silanol and panthenol is adopted to nurse healthy hair in a moisturizing spray mode, and the friction resistance during combing is obviously reduced, so that the composition can obviously improve the softness of the hair.