Preparation method of corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric

文档序号:730635 发布日期:2021-04-20 浏览:27次 中文

阅读说明:本技术 玉米生物基纤维双面双层弹力多功能机织面料的制备方法 (Preparation method of corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric ) 是由 张俊炎 张沛 于 2019-10-18 设计创作,主要内容包括:本发明公开了玉米生物基纤维双面双层弹力多功能机织面料的制备方法,具体涉及机织面料制备工艺领域,包括以下步骤:S1、原材料选择:选用玉米生物基纤维、涤纶阳离子纤维、导电纤维和氨纶作为基础原料;S2、机械包覆:以氨纶丝为芯,以玉米生物基纤维按螺旋形的方式对伸长状态的氨纶丝予以包覆;S3、纤维网络复合、络丝及加捻:采用玉米生物基纤维、涤纶阳离子纤维和导电纤维进行三合一网络复合,再用网络复合纱进行络丝及加捻;S4、织造;S5、染色、后整理。本发明采用上述原料和制备工艺,制备的玉米生物基纤维双面双层机织面料弹性好,且低碳环保、抗皱、抗静电,质地细腻,能形成丰富的花纹肌理和色彩,手感柔软舒适。(The invention discloses a preparation method of a corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric, and particularly relates to the field of woven fabric preparation processes, wherein the preparation method comprises the following steps: s1, selecting raw materials: selecting corn bio-based fiber, terylene cationic fiber, conductive fiber and spandex as basic raw materials; s2, mechanical coating: taking spandex filaments as a core, and coating the spandex filaments in an extended state by using corn bio-based fibers in a spiral manner; s3, fiber network compounding, silk winding and twisting: carrying out three-in-one network compounding by adopting corn bio-based fibers, polyester cationic fibers and conductive fibers, and then winding and twisting by using network compound yarns; s4, weaving; s5, dyeing and finishing. By adopting the raw materials and the preparation process, the prepared corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer woven fabric is good in elasticity, low-carbon, environment-friendly, anti-wrinkle, anti-static, fine and smooth in texture, capable of forming rich patterns, textures and colors, and soft and comfortable in hand feeling.)

1. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:

s1, selecting raw materials: selecting corn bio-based fiber, terylene cationic fiber, conductive fiber and spandex as basic raw materials;

s2, mechanical coating: taking spandex filaments as a core, and coating the extended spandex filaments by corn bio-based fibers in a spiral manner to form elastic coated yarns;

s3, fiber network compounding, silk winding and twisting: adopting corn bio-based fiber, terylene cationic fiber and conductive fiber to carry out three-in-one network composition, carrying out low tension and low air pressure control during composition, then adopting a mixed winding and reeling process to carry out silk winding on the network composite yarn, and finally adopting a low spindle speed and low twist processing process to carry out twisting to obtain network composite twisted yarn;

s4, weaving: before weaving, analyzing yarn density, loom efficiency and fabric elasticity critical point, when weaving, adopting a water jet loom, adopting ultrathin high-strength nylon palm fiber as palm frame palm fiber of the water jet loom, coiling elastic coating yarn on a main warp beam of the loom to actively send and take when skewing the elastic coating yarn on a sectional warping machine, additionally arranging a small warp beam below a rear beam of the loom, coiling network composite twisted yarn on the small warp beam when skewing the elastic coating yarn on the sectional warping machine, passively sending and taking when weaving, weaving and adopting double-layer inside-outside interconnected tissue to weave to obtain a woven fabric semi-finished product;

s5, dyeing and finishing: the woven fabric semi-finished product treatment steps are as follows: pretreatment → low-temperature presetting → fiber-opening alkali decrement → water washing, dehydration, neutralization of the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali → dyeing → reduction washing → anti-splashing water treatment → drying.

2. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step S1, DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, DPF fine denier terylene cationic fiber 0.5-0.1, 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber and 40D spandex are selected as basic raw materials.

3. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step S2, the extended spandex filament is wrapped with the corn bio-based fiber in a spiral manner, and the wrapping process of the spandex and the corn bio-based fiber is as follows: the nail rotating speed is 11000-12000RPM, the twist is 600-700T/M, the cladding direction is Z-twist or S-twist, the spandex drafting multiple is 3-4 times, the winding angle is 15-20 degrees, the swing splicing amplitude is 3-4%, the swing frequency period is 15-20S, the starting acceleration time and the stopping deceleration time are 20-30S, and the winding bobbin capacity is 700-750 g.

4. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step S3, the process of performing three-in-one network compounding by using the corn bio-based fiber, the polyester cationic fiber and the conductive fiber comprises the following steps: the method is characterized in that an SPC200 network machine is adopted for network compounding, three layers of conductive fibers, polyester cationic fibers and corn bio-based fibers are respectively vertically separated from top to bottom, the lower middle layer of yarns pass through alumina porcelain eyes with the length of 10CM and the diameter of 1CM embedded on a wood board from the center of an upper layer of yarn bobbin layer by layer, the three yarns are wound on a gate-type tensioner together in a combining mode, pass through an air nozzle and are wound together in a rotating mode through air flow, and three-component network compound yarns are formed.

5. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the step S3, the low tension when the network composite yarn is untwisted is controlled at 8-10CN, the low air pressure is controlled at 0.8-1.0KG, the coiling tension after network composite is controlled at 15-18CN, the draw ratio is 1.1-1.3, and the water supply amount is 0.4-0.8L/H.

6. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in step S3, the winding process of the network composite yarn includes: the three-in-one net composite yarn is firstly formed into a pineapple bobbin for twisting on an SXJ988-280 silk winder in a mixed winding and coiling process mode, and then is processed at low spindle speed and low twist on a daily product NO.310 two-for-one twister.

7. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that: the novel process of the mixed winding and coiling mode on the SXJ988-280 silk winder comprises the following steps: the unwinding tension is controlled to be 15-20CN, the winding tension of the pineapple bobbin is controlled to be 20-25CN, the linear speed of the winder is 500-600m/min, the shoulder angle is 17-19 degrees, the initial stroke is 200-240mm, the final stroke is 60-70mm, the initial frequency is 45-50Hz, the final frequency is 20-25Hz, the transverse speed is 25-30 mm/s, the anti-overlapping length is 3-5 mm, and the number of anti-overlapping layers is 2-5.

8. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 6, characterized in that: the processing technology of the NO.310 two-for-one twister with low ingot speed and low twist comprises the following steps: the speed of the double-twist spindle is 6000RPM, the unwinding tension is 18-22CN, the twist degree is 600-750T/M, the twist direction can be Z twist or S twist, 7.94x2 steel balls, the twist angle is 320-360 degrees, the winding tension is 20-25CN, and the capacity of the winding bobbin is 700-750 g.

9. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step S4, when the double-layer inside-outside interconnected structure is adopted for weaving, the network composite twisted yarn and the spandex covered yarn adopt the same twisting direction.

10. The preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the step S5, the specific processes of dyeing and finishing are as follows:

A. pretreatment: using 0.5-0.8g/L of degreaser and 0.5-0.8g/L of soda ash, ensuring the temperature to be 60-70 ℃, treating the semi-finished product of the woven fabric for 10-20min, washing the treated semi-finished product clean, firstly carrying out acid cleaning, and then carrying out full water cleaning;

B. low-temperature presetting: setting the pretreated fabric for 40-50min in an environment with the temperature of 70-80 ℃;

C. fiber opening alkali decrement: controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 25, the temperature is 90-100 ℃, the time is 30-40min, and the alkali reduction rate is 8-10%;

D. washing and dehydrating, neutralizing the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali to enable the pH value of the cloth cover to reach 6-7, and keeping the time for 10-15 minutes;

E. dyeing: preparing dye liquor formed by mixing 0.5-5% of warm disperse dye, 0.5-5% of SD disperse cationic dye and 0.5-5% of ZJ-RH12 homogenizing agent in SE, adjusting the pH to 4-5, and mixing the components according to a bath ratio of 1: 20, dyeing the fabric at 50-60 ℃, heating to 80-100 ℃ at the temperature of 1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10-20min, heating to 100-120 ℃, and preserving heat for 50-60 min;

F. reduction and cleaning: preparing a dye solution formed by mixing 1-5g/L of sodium carbonate, 1-5g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 1-5g/L of fatty amine polyoxyethylene ether according to a bath ratio of 1: 30, carrying out reduction cleaning on the fabric, wherein the cleaning temperature is 70-80 ℃, and the cleaning time is 15-20 min;

G. water splashing prevention treatment: resin treatment is adopted, and the speed is 40-50 m/min;

H. drying: the setting temperature is 140 ℃ and 150 ℃, and the speed is 60-70 m/min.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of woven fabric preparation processes, in particular to a preparation method of a corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric.

Background

Double-sided double-layer fabrics are popular fabrics in recent years and are first produced in japan. The novel garment fabric is a novel garment fabric, and the processing raw materials of the novel garment fabric comprise cashmere, wool, cashmere-like fabric, synthetic fibers and the like. When weaving, the upper layer and the lower layer are respectively connected by an independent thread shuttle and a knot yarn in the middle. The novel casual upper garment made of the fabric can be designed and manufactured without linings and lining cloth, is novel in appearance style, light, simple, easy to carry and care, and is praised by customers of all parties. In recent years, elastic fabrics meet the requirements of consumers on comfortable, random, convenient and quick life styles due to the properties of free extension and contraction, comfortable fit and the like. The elastic double-sided double-layer fabric is a popular hot spot of the garment fabric.

The common method for the elastic double-sided double-layer fabric in the existing market is as follows:

1. two different double-component elastic fabrics are attached to form a double-layer double-sided effect;

2. forming different surfaces by using a positive and negative fabric weave;

3. double-faced knitted fabric.

These types of stretch double layer fabrics have advantages and find more applications, but some of these deficiencies have limited further improvements and enhancements to such fabrics.

The first kind of double-layer cloth formed by bonding is easy to arch, bubble, stiff in hand feeling, unstable in elastic recovery of the fabric and the like;

the second type has limitation on the colors and textures of the front surface and the back surface and cannot form rich patterns and textures and colors;

the third type of double knit fabric has a soft texture, excellent elasticity and extensibility, and its producibility. But the moisture absorption of the fabric is poor, the fabric is not stiff and smooth enough and is easy to loose and curl, and the chemical fiber fabric is easy to fluff, pill and hook.

Moreover, the fabrics have single functions and appear not to be of high grade, and medium-high-end brands are basically not suitable for use.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to overcome the above defects of the prior art, the embodiment of the invention provides a preparation method of a corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric, wherein 40D spandex and American DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber are mechanically coated to form an elastic coating yarn; selecting 0.5-0.1DPF American DuPont fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier terylene cationic fiber and 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber to carry out three-in-one network compounding on an SPC200 network machine under low tension and low air pressure to obtain network composite twisted yarn, finally proportionally interweaving the elastic cladding yarn and the network composite twisted yarn by adopting a water jet loom, and dyeing and finishing by adopting a one-bath method to obtain the elastic multifunctional woven fabric with double-color effect, static resistance, crease resistance, difficult deformation and environmental protection.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme: the preparation method of the corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric comprises the following steps:

s1, selecting raw materials: selecting corn bio-based fiber, terylene cationic fiber, conductive fiber and spandex as basic raw materials;

s2, mechanical coating: taking spandex filaments as a core, and coating the extended spandex filaments by corn bio-based fibers in a spiral manner to form elastic coated yarns;

s3, fiber network compounding, silk winding and twisting: adopting corn bio-based fiber, terylene cationic fiber and conductive fiber to carry out three-in-one network composition, carrying out low tension and low air pressure control during composition, then adopting a mixed winding and reeling process to carry out silk winding on the network composite yarn, and finally adopting a low spindle speed and low twist processing process to carry out twisting to obtain network composite twisted yarn;

s4, weaving: before weaving, analyzing yarn density, loom efficiency and fabric elasticity critical point, when weaving, adopting a water jet loom, adopting ultrathin high-strength nylon palm fiber as palm frame palm fiber of the water jet loom, coiling elastic coating yarn on a main warp beam of the loom to actively send and take when skewing the elastic coating yarn on a sectional warping machine, additionally arranging a small warp beam below a rear beam of the loom, coiling network composite twisted yarn on the small warp beam when skewing the elastic coating yarn on the sectional warping machine, passively sending and taking when weaving, weaving and adopting double-layer inside-outside interconnected tissue to weave to obtain a woven fabric semi-finished product;

s5, dyeing and finishing: the woven fabric semi-finished product treatment steps are as follows: pretreatment → low-temperature presetting → fiber-opening alkali decrement → water washing, dehydration, neutralization of the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali → dyeing → reduction washing → anti-splashing water treatment → drying.

In a preferred embodiment, in step S1, dupont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier terylene cationic fiber, 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber and 40D spandex are selected as basic raw materials.

In a preferred embodiment, in step S2, the corn bio-based fiber is wrapped with the stretch spandex filament in a spiral manner, the wrapped yarn will form a twist, the fiber will not loose and generate hairiness, and the fiber can be directly used for weaving, and the machine-covering process of the spandex and the corn bio-based fiber is as follows: the nail rotating speed is 11000-12000RPM, the twist is 600-700T/M, the cladding direction is Z-twist or S-twist, the spandex drafting multiple is 3-4 times, the winding angle is 15-20 degrees, the swing splicing amplitude is 3-4%, the swing frequency period is 15-20S, the starting acceleration time and the stopping deceleration time are 20-30S, and the winding bobbin capacity is 700-750 g.

In a preferred embodiment, in the step S3, the three-in-one network compounding process using the corn bio-based fiber, the polyester cationic fiber and the conductive fiber comprises: the method is characterized in that an SPC200 network machine is adopted for network compounding, three layers of conductive fibers, polyester cationic fibers and corn bio-based fibers are respectively vertically withdrawn from top to bottom, the lower middle layer yarns penetrate through alumina porcelain eyes with the length of 10CM and the diameter of 1CM embedded on a wood board from the center of an upper layer yarn bobbin layer by layer, the three yarns are wound on a gate-type tensioner together in a combined mode through an air nozzle and are wound together in a rotating mode through air flow to form three-component network compound yarns, and network points and evenness of the compound yarns after the network are more uniform, so that the next winding process is facilitated.

In a preferred embodiment, in step S3, the low tension of the network composite yarn during unwinding is controlled to be 8-10CN, the low air pressure is controlled to be 0.8-1.0KG, the winding tension after network composite is controlled to be 15-18CN, the draw ratio is 1.1-1.3, and the water supply is 0.4-0.8L/H.

In a preferred embodiment, in step S3, the winding process of the network composite yarn is: the three-in-one network composite yarn is firstly formed into a pineapple bobbin for twisting on an SXJ988-280 silk winder in a mixed winding and coiling process mode, then is processed at low spindle speed and low twist on a daily product NO.310 two-for-one twister, fibers of the twisted network composite yarn are better cohered, and fluffing and pilling are not easy to occur in the weaving process.

In a preferred embodiment, the novel process of the mixed winding and coiling mode on the SXJ988-280 winder comprises the following steps: the unwinding tension is controlled to be 15-20CN, the winding tension of the pineapple bobbin is controlled to be 20-25CN, the linear speed of the winder is 500-600m/min, the shoulder angle is 17-19 degrees, the initial stroke is 200-240mm, the final stroke is 60-70mm, the initial frequency is 45-50Hz, the final frequency is 20-25Hz, the transverse speed is 25-30 mm/s, the anti-overlapping length is 3-5 mm, and the number of anti-overlapping layers is 2-5.

In a preferred embodiment, the low ingot speed and low twist processing technology on the No.310 two-for-one twister is as follows: the speed of the double-twist spindle is 6000RPM, the unwinding tension is 18-22CN, the twist degree is 600-750T/M, the twist direction can be Z twist or S twist, 7.94x2 steel balls, the twist angle is 320-360 degrees, the winding tension is 20-25CN, and the capacity of the winding bobbin is 700-750 g.

In a preferred embodiment, in the step S4, when the double-layer inside-outside interconnected structure is adopted for weaving, the composite twisted network yarn and the spandex covered yarn adopt the same twisting direction, so that the pattern is obvious and the cloth surface is flat.

In a preferred embodiment, in step S5, the specific processes of dyeing and finishing are as follows:

A. pretreatment: using 0.5-0.8g/L of degreaser and 0.5-0.8g/L of soda ash, ensuring the temperature to be 60-70 ℃, treating the semi-finished product of the woven fabric for 10-20min, washing the treated semi-finished product clean, firstly carrying out acid cleaning, and then carrying out full water cleaning;

B. low-temperature presetting: setting the pretreated fabric for 40-50min in an environment with the temperature of 70-80 ℃;

C. fiber opening alkali decrement: controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 25, the temperature is 90-100 ℃, the time is 30-40min, and the alkali reduction rate is 8-10%;

D. washing and dehydrating, neutralizing the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali to enable the pH value of the cloth cover to reach 6-7, and keeping the time for 10-15 minutes;

E. dyeing: preparing a dye liquor formed by mixing 0.5-5% (o.w.f) of SE medium-temperature disperse dye, 0.5-5% (o.w.f) of SD disperse cationic dye and 0.5-5% (o.w.f) of ZJ-RH12 homogenizing agent, adjusting the pH to be 4-5, and mixing the components according to a bath ratio of 1: 20, dyeing the fabric at 50-60 ℃, heating to 80-100 ℃ at the temperature of 1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10-20min, heating to 100-120 ℃, and preserving heat for 50-60 min;

F. reduction and cleaning: preparing a dye solution formed by mixing 1-5g/L of sodium carbonate, 1-5g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 1-5g/L of fatty amine polyoxyethylene ether according to a bath ratio of 1: 30, carrying out reduction cleaning on the fabric, wherein the cleaning temperature is 70-80 ℃, and the cleaning time is 15-20 min;

G. water splashing prevention treatment: resin treatment is adopted, and the speed is 40-50 m/min;

H. drying: the setting temperature is 140 ℃ and 150 ℃, and the speed is 60-70 m/min.

The invention has the technical effects and advantages that:

1. the invention adopts 40D spandex and American DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber to mechanically wrap to form elastic wrap yarn, the mechanical wrap yarn is to continuously rotate and wrap the wrap fiber filament on the core filament spandex which is drafted at a constant speed, and the mechanical wrap yarn is twisted to have twist, and the spandex is an elastic fiber with excellent elasticity, the American DuPont SORONA corn bio-based fiber has high low modulus recovery, deformation resistance and crease resistance, so that the application of the yarn in the fabric is mainly characterized in that the fabric is flat, stiff and smooth and has good elasticity; selecting 0.5-0.1DPF American DuPont fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier terylene cationic fiber and 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber to carry out three-in-one network compounding on an SPC200 network machine under low tension and low air pressure, firstly adopting a mixed winding and winding process mode to form a pineapple bobbin for twisting on an SXJ988-280 silk winder after the yarns are subjected to network compounding on an SXJ988-280 silk winder, then adopting a daily product NO.310 two-fold twister to process at low spindle speed and low twist to form network compounded twisted yarns, and the twisted network compounded yarn fibers are better in cohesion and are not easy to fluff and pilling in the weaving process; finally, elastic covering yarns and the network composite twisted yarns are proportionally interwoven by a water jet loom, and dyeing and finishing are carried out by a one-bath dyeing method to obtain an elastic multifunctional woven fabric which has a double-color effect, is antistatic, crease-resistant, not easy to deform and is environment-friendly;

2. the fabric adopts 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier fiber, the diameter is very small, the bending rigidity is very small, the fabric style is soft and fine, meanwhile, the fine denier fiber has a plurality of fine pores among the microfibers, the micro air chambers are formed among the fibers, the capillary effect is increased, the water vapor dredging performance is good, the fabric has better air permeability and moisture permeability, the American DuPont SORONA corn bio-based fiber has the characteristics of low modulus and high recovery, and the material endows the fabric with extremely strong deformability and anti-wrinkle function; in addition, the American DuPont SONORA fiber is a polymer synthesized by 1, 3-Propanediol (PDO) extracted from corn and purified terephthalic acid, is a novel synthetic fiber in the 21 st century and is 37 percent renewable, so that the obtained fabric is relatively environment-friendly;

3. the addition of the polyester cation is considered that the polyester cation is easy to dye in the dyeing process, has bright color and can generate a two-color effect with common polyester yarns, and the addition of the 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber can effectively and timely convey the cloth cover charges to the outside and prevent the charges from being accumulated, so that the aim of resisting static electricity is fulfilled; the Xw-ele conductive fiber is a three-point external conductive fiber, three conductive graphite layers are uniformly embedded in a synthetic fiber base material by adopting a composite spinning technology, and static electricity can be effectively released by utilizing the principle that a conductive blade generates corona discharge;

4. 40D spandex and American DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber coated yarn are coiled on a main warp beam of a loom to be actively fed and taken when skewing on a sectional warping machine, a small warp beam is additionally arranged below a rear beam of the loom, the American DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier terylene cationic fiber and 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber are coiled on the small warp beam when skewing on the sectional warping machine, the twisted yarn is passively fed and taken when weaving, and meanwhile, a palm frame palm of the water jet loom adopts ultrathin high-strength nylon palm, so that the friction of the warp can be reduced in the weaving process, and the situations of warp breakage and fuzzing are prevented;

5. the same twisting direction is adopted by the network composite twisted yarn and the spandex coated yarn, so that the pattern is obvious, and the cloth surface is smooth; the double-layer surface-interior interconnection structure is adopted in the fabric structure design for weaving, the connection points are ingeniously matched with the fabric tissues, the textures and the yarn colors, the characteristics of rich patterns and textures and colors can be formed, the thinnest thickness of the fabric can be lower than 120 g/square meter, the prepared series of fabrics have good elasticity and fine texture, rich patterns and textures can be formed, the hand feeling is soft and comfortable, the fabric is low-carbon and environment-friendly, the crease-resistant antistatic performance is excellent, and the fabric is an ideal fabric for manufacturing sportswear, jackets and convenience and western medicine.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

The invention provides a preparation method of a corn bio-based fiber double-sided double-layer elastic multifunctional woven fabric;

weaving: name DQ15197

Raw materials: the first and second meridians

The first meridian: 70D Spandex covered yarn 700T/M left twist (40D Spandex +50D/144F Fine denier SORONA fiber) 20163

And (3) menstruation: 120D three-in-one network composite twisted yarn 700T/M left twist (50D/144F fine denier SORONA fiber +50D/144F fine denier cation polyester filament +20D conductive fiber) 517 yarns

The first meridian: second meridian =39:1

Weft and warp yarns

Density: 110X95 (Unit: root/cm)

And (3) mounting a machine door width: 188cm

Weaving machine type: LW2M-230 Nissan multi-arm free weft-selecting double-jet loom

Weaving speed: 400rpm

Weaving organization: double-layer structure for exterior and interior binding

The production process comprises the following steps:

s1, selecting raw materials: the American DuPont 50D/144F fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, the 50D/144F fine denier terylene cationic fiber, the 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber and the 40D spandex are selected as basic raw materials, the American DuPont 50D/144F fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber is low-carbon, environment-friendly and renewable, and has the characteristics of low modulus and high resilience, so that the American DuPont fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber has extremely strong deformability and crease resistance; the 40D spandex yarn has the greatest advantages of good elasticity, capability of stretching 3-6 times and no aging; the 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber can effectively and timely convey the charge of the cloth cover to the outside and prevent the charge from aggregating;

s2, mechanical coating: taking spandex filaments as a core, and coating the extended spandex filaments by corn bio-based fibers in a spiral manner to form elastic coated yarns;

the coating process comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps that 40D spandex and American DuPont 50D/144F fine-denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber are mechanically wrapped on an HKV141D wrapping yarn machine to form elastic wrapping yarn, the wrapping yarn takes spandex filaments as cores, and the 50D/144F fine-denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber wraps the spandex filaments in an elongated state in a spiral mode to form the elastic wrapping yarn; because the yarn can form the twist after the mechanical cladding, the fibre can not loosen and produce the filoplume, can be used for weaving directly, the actual titer after the cladding of above-mentioned two spandex cladding yarns is 70D, the specific machine wraps the technology and is: the nail rotating speed is 12000RPM, the twist degree is 700T/M, the cladding direction is Z twist or S twist, the spandex drafting multiple is 3 times, the winding angle is 15 degrees, the pendulum splicing amplitude is 3 percent, the pendulum frequency period is 15S, the starting acceleration time and the stopping deceleration time are 20S, and the capacity of a winding bobbin is 750 g;

s3, fiber network compounding, silk winding and twisting:

first step fiber network compounding: the method adopts corn bio-based fiber, terylene cationic fiber and conductive fiber to carry out three-in-one network compounding, and comprises the following specific processes: firstly, the parallel unwinding of the yarn of the original one layer of SPC200 network machine is improved into the vertical unwinding of the yarn of the three layers from top to bottom, 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber is on the upper layer, 50D/144F fine denier terylene cationic fiber is on the middle layer, 50D/144F fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber is on the lower layer, the yarn of the lower middle layer passes through 10CM length embedded on the wood plate from the center of the yarn bobbin of the upper layer by layer, alumina porcelain eye with diameter of 1CM, three yarns are wound on a gate type tensioner together and pass through an air nozzle, and are wound together by air flow rotation to form three-component network composite yarn, so that the network points and evenness of the network composite yarn are more uniform, and the next winding process is facilitated; wherein, the tension of the network composite yarn during the unwinding is 8CN, the air pressure is 1.0KG, the coiling tension after the network composite is controlled at 15CN, the draw ratio is 1.1, and the water supply amount is 0.4L/H;

and a second step of reeling: winding the net compounded yarn into a pineapple bobbin to prepare for twisting in the next procedure, wherein the pineapple bobbin for twisting is formed by adopting a mixed winding and coiling process mode on the three-in-one net compound yarn for the first time on an SXJ988-280 winder; wherein, the unwinding tension of the network composite yarn is 15CN, the winding tension of the pineapple bobbin is 18CN, the linear speed of the winder is 550m/min, the shoulder angle is 17 degrees, the initial stroke is 210mm, the final stroke is 65mm, the initial frequency is 45Hz, the final frequency is 25Hz, the transverse speed is 25 mm/s, the anti-overlapping length is 5mm, and the number of anti-overlapping layers is 3;

twisting: processing at low ingot speed and low twist on a daily NO.310 two-for-one twister; the network composite yarn fibers are better cohered, and are not easy to fluff and pilling in the weaving process; wherein the low spindle speed on a No.310 two-for-one twister is 6000RPM, the unwinding tension is 18CN, the twist degree is 700T/M, the twisting direction Z is twisted, 7.94x2 steel balls are arranged, the twist angle is 320 degrees, the winding tension is 20CN, and the capacity of a winding bobbin is 750 g; actually measuring the titer of the twisted mixture to be 120D;

s4, weaving:

before weaving, analyzing yarn density, loom efficiency and fabric elasticity critical points, controlling the yarn density, the loom efficiency and the fabric elasticity critical points, setting the warp density of the fabric to be 110/cm, and setting the weft density to be 95/cm;

during weaving, controlling a weaving process of a water jet loom: when the series of double-layer fabrics are shuttled in the weft direction, the difference of the lifting number of heald frames between shuttles is large, the load of a weaving machine is easy to be uneven, so the tension of the weaving machine is not too large, the speed of the weaving machine also needs to be properly reduced, the difference of the width and the density of the weaving machine and the difference of different fibers in the aspects of strength, elongation and the like are also considered during weaving, how to perfectly interweave the fabrics together during weaving, the palm returning elasticity is properly increased by adjusting the equipment and the process of warp position lines, opening time and water quantity, and the rough surface rubber of the thickened fine grain reeling rod is customized, so the stability of a weaving opening is ensured; when weaving, the rotating speed of a weaving machine is 400rpm, a novel ceramic nozzle with the specification of 30x10 is adopted, the machine unwinding tension is 25CN, the spraying start angle is 95 ℃, the flight start angle is 125 ℃, the flight stop angle is 280 ℃, and the P value is 27 mm;

a small warp beam is added below the rear beam of the water jet loom: reeling 40D spandex and American DuPont 50D/144F fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber mechanical covered yarn on a main warp beam of a loom to be actively fed when the yarn is skewered on a sectional warping machine, additionally arranging a small warp beam below a back beam of the loom, reeling the twisted yarn compounded by the American DuPont 50D/144F fine denier SORONA fiber, the 50D/144F fine denier terylene cationic fiber and the 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber three-in-one network on the small warp beam when the yarn is skewered on the sectional warping machine, passively feeding when weaving, reducing friction of warp yarn in the weaving process, and preventing warp breakage and fuzzing, wherein palm frame yarns of a water jet loom are made of ultrathin high-strength nylon palm yarns;

in the design of a fabric weave structure, a connecting point is skillfully matched with fabric weave, texture and yarn color, a double-layer surface-inner interconnection weave is adopted for weaving, and meanwhile, in order to ensure that the pattern is obvious and the cloth cover is smooth, the same 700T/M left twisting direction is adopted for the network composite twisted yarn and the spandex coated yarn during design;

s5, dyeing and finishing: the woven fabric semi-finished product treatment steps are as follows: pretreatment → low-temperature presetting → fiber-opening alkali decrement → water washing, dehydration, neutralization of the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali → dyeing → reduction washing → anti-splashing water treatment → drying; the specific process comprises the following steps:

A. pretreatment: using 0.6g/L of degreaser and 0.6g/L of sodium carbonate, ensuring the temperature to be 60 ℃, treating the semi-finished product of the woven fabric for 15min, washing the semi-finished product clean after treatment, carrying out acid washing firstly, and then carrying out full water washing;

B. low-temperature presetting: setting the pretreated fabric for 40min in an environment with the temperature of 70 ℃;

C. fiber opening alkali decrement: controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 25, the temperature is 90 ℃, the time is 30min, and the alkali reduction rate is 8%;

D. washing and dehydrating, neutralizing the grey cloth with a small amount of acid and alkali to enable the pH value of the cloth cover to reach 6, and keeping the time for 15 minutes;

E. dyeing: preparing a dye solution formed by mixing SE medium temperature type disperse dye 0.5% (o.w.f), SD disperse type cationic dye 0.5% (o.w.f) and ZJ-RH12 homogenizing agent 0.5% (o.w.f), adjusting the pH to be 4, and mixing the components according to a bath ratio of 1: 20, dyeing the fabric at 50 ℃, heating to 85 ℃ at the temperature of 1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 15min, heating to 110 ℃, and preserving heat for 50 min;

F. reduction and cleaning: preparing a dye solution formed by mixing 2.5g/L of sodium carbonate, 2.5g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 2g/L of fatty amine polyoxyethylene ether according to a bath ratio of 1: 30, carrying out reduction cleaning on the fabric, wherein the cleaning temperature is 70 ℃, and the cleaning time is 15 min;

G. water splashing prevention treatment: resin treatment is adopted, and the speed is 40 m/min;

H. drying: the setting temperature is 140 ℃ and the speed is 60 m/min.

The fabric can develop a clear striped and imitated color weaving effect through one-bath dyeing processing, and can also achieve double-color or multi-color hazy multi-level tones, wherein the polyester fibers are dyed by disperse dyes, and the cation modified polyester fibers are dyed by cation dyes;

the disperse dye has high substantivity to spandex fibers, and the dye uptake rate increases with increasing temperature. For this reason, 100% polyester fabrics are usually dyed at 130 ℃, whereas the fabrics can only be dyed at temperatures below 130 ℃. Even when dyed at 115 ℃, a significant portion of the disperse dye is colored on the spandex and results in a decrease in the elasticity of the spandex. Therefore, the treatment with an alkaline reducing agent after dyeing is very important, and sodium hydrosulfite or thiourea dioxide is usually selected to be completed under the conditions that the pH value is 10-11 and the temperature is 70-80 ℃. The treated fabric must be carefully cleaned to remove dye decomposition and other impurities from the fabric to ensure color fastness and abrasion resistance of the dye.

In the dyeing process, because the fiber raw materials used by the fabric have great difference with common fabric fibers in structural form and have high processing difficulty, soft water is required to be adopted for processing in the whole dyeing and finishing process, in order to effectively control color difference, the process parameters such as chemical consumption, temperature, bath ratio, cloth speed and the like in the fabric pretreatment and dyeing processes must be strictly controlled, and the dyeing temperature must be strictly controlled below 130 ℃.

The invention is realized by the way that firstly, 40D spandex and American DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber are mechanically wrapped to form elastic wrapping yarn, the mechanical wrapping yarn is formed by continuously rotating and winding wrapping fiber filaments on core filament spandex which is drafted at a constant speed, and the mechanical wrapping yarn is twisted to have twist, and the application of the yarn in fabric is mainly characterized in that the fabric is flat, stiff and elastic;

the invention is realized by selecting 0.5-0.1DPF U.S. DuPont fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier terylene cationic fiber and 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber to carry out three-in-one network compounding on an SPC200 network machine under low tension and low air pressure, firstly forming a pineapple bobbin for twisting on the yarn subjected to network compounding on an SXJ988-280 silk winder by adopting a mixed winding and coiling process mode, and then forming the network compounded twisted yarn on a daily product NO.310 two-for-one twister under low spindle speed and low twist. The twisted network composite yarn fibers are better in cohesion and are not easy to fluff and pilling in the weaving process; the fabric adopts 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier fiber, the fine denier fiber has small bending rigidity due to small diameter, the fabric has soft and delicate style, meanwhile, the fine denier fiber has a plurality of fine pores among the microfibers, micro air chambers are formed among the fibers, the capillary effect is increased, the water vapor dredging performance is good, and the fabric has good air permeability and moisture permeability; the American DuPont SORONA corn bio-based fiber has the characteristics of low modulus and high recovery, and the material endows the fabric with extremely strong deformability and anti-wrinkle function;

in addition, the polyester cation is added in consideration of easy dyeing in the dyeing process, the color is bright, and the polyester cation can generate a double-color effect with common polyester yarns, the addition of the 20D Xw-ele conductive fiber can effectively and timely convey the charges of the cloth cover to the outside, and prevent the charges from being accumulated so as to achieve the purpose of static resistance, the Xw-ele conductive fiber is a three-point external conduction type fiber, the composite spinning technology is adopted, three conductive graphite layers are uniformly embedded into a synthetic fiber base material, and the static electricity can be effectively released by utilizing the principle that conductive leaves generate corona discharge, so that the fabric prepared by the invention has strong static resistance;

the American DuPont SONORA fiber is a polymer synthesized by 1, 3-Propanediol (PDO) extracted from corn and purified terephthalic acid, is a novel synthetic fiber in the 21 st century, is 37 percent renewable, and thus, a new concept of environmental protection is injected into the fabric;

the invention well controls the weaving process of the water jet loom during weaving, establishes reasonable warp and weft density to ensure the efficiency of the loom and the elastic effect of fabrics, meanwhile, in order to improve the running rate of the loom and ensure the product quality by considering the difference of different fibers in the aspects of strength, elongation and the like, 40D spandex and American DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA corn bio-based fiber coated yarn are coiled on a main warp beam of the loom to be actively fed when the warp is inserted on a sectional warping machine, a small warp beam is additionally arranged below a back beam of a weaving machine, twisted yarns formed by compounding three-in-one networks of American DuPont 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier SORONA fibers, 0.5-0.1DPF fine denier terylene cationic fibers and 20D Xw-ele conductive fibers are skewered and reeled on the small warp beam in a sectional warping machine in a warp cutting mode and are passively fed during weaving, meanwhile, in order to reduce the friction of the warp yarn in the weaving process and prevent the conditions of warp breakage and fuzzing, the palm frame palm yarn of the water jet loom is made of ultrathin high-strength nylon palm yarn.

Meanwhile, in order to ensure that the pattern is obvious and the cloth surface is smooth, the same twisting direction is adopted for the network composite twisted yarn and the spandex coated yarn during design.

The double-layer surface-interior interconnection structure is adopted in the fabric structure design for weaving, the connection points are ingeniously matched with the fabric tissues, the textures and the yarn colors, the characteristics of rich patterns and textures and colors can be formed, the thinnest thickness of the fabric can be lower than 120 g/square meter, the prepared series of fabrics have good elasticity and fine texture, rich patterns and textures can be formed, the hand feeling is soft and comfortable, the fabric is low-carbon and environment-friendly, the crease-resistant antistatic performance is excellent, and the fabric is an ideal fabric for manufacturing sportswear, jackets and convenience and western medicine.

The method is an original creation in the industry, and currently, product series such as elastic double-sided double-color, elastic double-sided double-lattice, elastic double-sided double-grain and the like are formed.

And finally: the above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents, improvements and the like that are within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.

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