阅读说明：本技术 一种组合物和长效卷翘睫毛膏 (Composition and long-acting curling mascara ) 是由 蔡佳静 何益飞 李金萍 王宇诗 于 2020-12-26 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及化妆品技术领域,尤其涉及一种组合物和长效卷翘睫毛膏。本发明公开了一种组合物,由苹果酸、半胱氨酸聚合物和三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯组成。该组合物中苹果酸和半胱氨酯聚合物可作为调理剂,三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯作为成膜剂,三者协同配合,有效改善体系黏度,使体系黏度适宜,且该组合物可以提升产品的顺滑感,提升产品的定型效果,且定型效果长效持久。(The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition and long-acting curling mascara. The invention discloses a composition, which consists of malic acid, cysteine polymer and trimethylsiloxy silicate. The malic acid and cysteine ester polymer in the composition can be used as a conditioner, the trimethylsiloxy silicate ester is used as a film forming agent, and the malic acid and the cysteine ester polymer are cooperatively matched, so that the viscosity of a system is effectively improved, the viscosity of the system is proper, the smoothness of the product can be improved, the setting effect of the product is improved, and the setting effect is long-lasting.)

1. A composition comprising malic acid, a cysteine polymer, and trimethylsiloxysilicate.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the malic acid, the cysteine polymer and the trimethylsiloxysilicate is (0.01-0.05): (0.01-0.05): (10-15).

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cysteine polymer comprises: one or more than two of cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol, cysteine-n-carboxyl internal anhydride polymer and b-polycysteine block copolymer.

4. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 for the preparation of a shaped product.

5. A long-lasting curling mascara comprising the composition of any of claims 1-3, a wax, a film former, an emollient, a suspending agent, a filler, an emulsifier, a tocopherol, a colorant, and a solvent.

6. The long-acting curling mascara according to claim 5, wherein the composition is contained in the long-acting curling mascara in an amount of 12.02-18.02% by weight.

7. The long-lasting curling mascara according to claim 6, wherein in terms of mass percent,

0.01-0.05% of malic acid;

0.01-0.05% of cysteine polymer;

10-15% of trimethylsiloxy silicate;

6-15% of wax;

0-2% of a film forming agent;

2-5% of a suspending agent;

4-12% of a filler;

3-8% of an emulsifier;

0.1-0.6% of an emollient;

0.5-3% of a coloring agent;

the balance being solvent.

8. The long lasting curling mascara according to claim 5, wherein said wax comprises: one or more of microcrystalline wax, ceresin, paraffin, synthetic wax and white beeswax;

the film-forming agent comprises: one or more of silicone resin, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, VP/hexadecene copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone;

the emollient includes: one or more than two of tridecyl alcohol trimellitate, tocopherol and hydrogenated polyisobutene;

the suspending agent comprises: one or more of dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, disteardimonium hectorite and modified corn starch;

the filler comprises: one or more of talcum powder, nylon-6, silica, aluminum distearate, mica, bismuth oxychloride, polytetrafluoroethylene and methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer;

the emulsifier comprises: one or more of PEG-8 dioleate, sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, inulin lauryl carbamate and sorbitan olivate;

the colorant comprises: one or more of CI 77499, CI 77891 and CI 77288;

the solvent comprises: one or more of isododecane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, and squalane.

9. The method of preparing a long-lasting curling mascara according to claim 5, comprising the steps of:

step 1: heating trimethylsiloxy silicate, a solvent, wax, a film forming agent, an emulsifier and a suspending agent to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly mixing to obtain a phase A;

step 2: cooling the phase A to 50-55 ℃, and adding a filler and a colorant for grinding;

and step 3: and heating the ground material body to 40-45 ℃, adding malic acid, cysteine polymer and emollient, and uniformly mixing to obtain the long-acting curling mascara.

10. A hair styling agent comprising the composition of any one of claims 1 to 3;

the hair styling agent comprises the composition and is used for hair styling, wherein the mass content of the composition in the hair styling agent is 10.02-15.1%.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a composition and long-acting curling mascara.

Background

Mascara is a cosmetic for applying to eyelashes, and is mainly intended to curl, thicken and set the eyelashes. The eyelashes are similar to hairs in structure and are all composed of polypeptide chains, and disulfide bonds, salt bonds, hydrogen bonds and other bonds are formed among the peptide chains to maintain the shape of the hairs. Asians have lighter natural contour, shorter hair and thinner eyelashes, and after the mascara is applied, the makeup effect of the eyelashes cannot reach the curling degree and the density of the caucasians. If the curling and shaping effects of the paste are improved, the material body needs to be adjusted by adding the film forming agent, but the viscosity degree of the material body is improved, so that the eyelashes are easy to tangle, and the effect of clear root cannot be achieved.

Disclosure of Invention

In view of the above, the present invention provides a composition for enhancing the setting effect of eyelashes, making the roots of the eyelashes clear, and maintaining the curling effect of the eyelashes for a long time, and a long-lasting mascara.

The specific technical scheme is as follows:

the invention provides a composition, which consists of malic acid, cysteine polymer and trimethylsiloxy silicate.

In the invention, the malic acid contains natural skin moistening components, and can easily dissolve 'stickies' adhered between dead cells in dry scale shape, thereby removing wrinkles on the surface of the skin and enabling the skin to be tender, white, smooth and elastic. Cysteine contains free sulfur molecules and can perform bonding exchange with disulfide bonds in hair, so that amino acid in the hair is crosslinked, and the effects of shaping and maintaining curling are achieved. The trimethylsiloxy silicate is a shaping film forming agent, is used in color cosmetic formulations such as foundation fluid, lipstick, mascara and the like, and can help make up and shape. The invention discovers that malic acid and cysteine ester polymer in the composition can be used as a conditioner, trimethylsiloxy silicate is used as a film forming agent, and the malic acid and the cysteine ester polymer can cooperate with each other to effectively adjust the viscosity of the system to a proper range, so that the product is smooth to coat, good in sizing effect and long-lasting.

In the invention, the mass ratio of the malic acid, the cysteine polymer and the trimethylsiloxy silicate is (0.01-0.05): (0.01-0.05): (10-15). The three components in the composition are in the proportioning range, so that the viscosity of the product is improved, the smoothness of the product is improved, and the shaping effect of the product is long-lasting.

In the present invention, the cysteine polymer includes: cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol, one or more of cysteine-n-carboxyl internal anhydride polymer and b-poly-cysteine block copolymer, preferably cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol.

The invention also provides the application of the composition in preparing a shaped product.

In the present invention, the styling product includes mascara or a hair setting agent.

The composition provided by the invention is applied to a hair styling agent, so that the hair styling effect is good, and the long-acting effect is long.

The invention also provides long-acting curling mascara, which comprises the composition, wax, film forming agent, emollient, suspending agent, filler, emulsifier, tocopherol, colorant and solvent.

The long-acting warping mascara provided by the invention has high smoothness and appropriate viscosity, and the cosmetic effect of warping can be kept for 18 hours.

In the invention, the mass content of the composition in the long-acting curling mascara is 12.02-18.02%, and preferably 12.02%.

In the invention, according to the mass percentage,

0.01-0.05% of malic acid;

0.01-0.05% of cysteine polymer;

10-15% of trimethylsiloxy silicate, preferably 10-12%;

0.5-1% of tocopherol (vitamin E), preferably 0.5%;

6-15% of the wax, preferably 8-12%; the wax comprises: one or more than two of microcrystalline wax, ceresin, paraffin, synthetic wax and white beeswax, preferably microcrystalline wax and ceresin, wherein the microcrystalline wax accounts for 5-7%, preferably 5%, and the ceresin accounts for 3-5%, preferably 3%;

the film forming agent is 0-2%, preferably 0%; the film-forming agent comprises: one or more of silicone resin, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, VP/hexadecene copolymer and polyvinylpyrrolidone, preferably silicone resin;

the suspending agent is 2-5%, preferably 2.8-4%; the suspending agent comprises: one or more of dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate, disteardimonium hectorite and modified corn starch, preferably dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate and disteardimonium hectorite, wherein dextrin palmitate/ethylhexanoate is 0.8-1%, preferably 0.8%, and disteardimonium hectorite is 2-3%, preferably 2%;

the filler is 4-12%, preferably 7.7-11.3%; the filler comprises: one or more of talcum powder, nylon-6, silica, aluminum distearate, mica, bismuth oxychloride, polytetrafluoroethylene and methyl methacrylate cross-linked polymer, preferably talcum powder, nylon-6, silica and aluminum distearate, wherein the talcum powder accounts for 4-6%, the nylon-60.5-1%, the silica accounts for 0.5%, the silica accounts for 3-5%, the aluminum distearate accounts for 0.2-0.3%;

the emulsifier is 3-8%, and preferably 4-6%; the emulsifier comprises: one or more of PEG-8 dioleate, sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, inulin lauryl carbamate and sorbitan olive oleate are preferably selected from PEG-8 dioleate and sorbitan isostearate, wherein the PEG-8 dioleate accounts for 3-4%, the PEG-8 dioleate accounts for 3%, the sorbitan isostearate accounts for 1-2%, and the sorbitan isostearate accounts for 1%;

the colorant is 0.5-3%, preferably 1%; the colorant comprises: one or more of CI 77499, CI 77891 and CI 77288, preferably CI 77499;

the emollient is 0.1-0.6%, preferably 0.5%; the emollient includes: one or more of tridecyl alcohol trimellitate, tocopherol and hydrogenated polyisobutene, preferably tocopherol;

the solvent is used for complementing the mass percentage content of the long-acting curling mascara to 100 percent; the solvent comprises: one or more of isododecane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane, isohexadecane, and squalane, preferably isododecane.

The invention is suitable for long-acting curling mascara. The source of other raw materials in the long-acting curling mascara is not particularly limited, and the long-acting curling mascara can be prepared by self or purchased on the market. Among them, trimethylsiloxysilicate is preferably used under the trade nameTMS 803、DOWSIL^TMMQ-1600, KF-7312L, SeraSnow SP 12, or SR-1000.

The invention also provides a preparation method of the long-acting curling mascara, which comprises the following steps:

step 1: heating trimethylsiloxy silicate, a solvent, wax, a film forming agent, an emulsifier and a suspending agent to 80-85 ℃, and uniformly mixing to obtain a phase A;

step 2: cooling the phase A to 50-55 ℃, adding a filler and a colorant, and grinding uniformly;

and step 3: and heating the ground material body to 40-45 ℃, adding malic acid, cysteine polymer and emollient, and uniformly mixing to obtain the long-acting curling mascara.

The invention also provides a hair styling agent, which comprises the composition;

the hair styling agent comprises the composition and is used for hair styling, wherein the mass content of the composition in the hair styling agent is 10.02-15.1%.

According to the technical scheme, the invention has the following advantages:

the invention provides a composition, which consists of malic acid, cysteine polymer and trimethylsiloxy silicate. The malic acid and cysteine ester polymer in the composition can be used as a conditioner, the trimethylsiloxy silicate ester is used as a film forming agent, and the malic acid and the cysteine ester polymer are cooperatively matched, so that the viscosity of a system is effectively improved, the viscosity of the system is proper, the smoothness of the product can be improved, the setting effect of the product is improved, and the setting effect is long-lasting.

Detailed Description

In order to make the objects, features and advantages of the present invention more obvious and understandable, the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it should be apparent that the embodiments described below are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

In the examples of the present invention, the raw materials are commercially available, wherein trimethylsiloxysilicate is available from Movix under the trade name SR 1000.

Examples 1 to 3

Examples 1-3 are preparations of long-acting curling mascara, the formula of which is shown in table 1, and the specific preparation steps are as follows:

1. heating trimethylsiloxy silicate, solvent, wax, film-forming agent, emulsifier and suspending agent to 80 ℃, and uniformly mixing to obtain phase A;

2. cooling the phase A to 50 ℃, adding a filler and a colorant, and grinding uniformly by using a three-roller grinding mill;

3. and heating the ground material body to 40 ℃, adding malic acid, cysteine polymer and emollient, and uniformly mixing to obtain the long-acting curling mascara.

TABLE 1 examples 1-3 formulations

Comparative examples 1 to 8

Comparative examples 1 to 8 are mascara preparations, the formulation is shown in Table 2, and the specific preparation steps are the same as in examples 1 to 3.

TABLE 2 comparative examples 1-8 formulations

Example 4

This example tests the performance of the mascaras obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8.

Testing the population:

a mascara curling and warping persistence testing method comprises the following steps: selecting 50 women, carrying out 30 +/-10 years of average age, uniformly clamping and raising two eyelashes by using an eyelash clamp, applying three times of mascara to the left eye, not applying any product to the right eye, comparing the curling difference of the two eyelashes after 18 hours, and grading the smoothness satisfaction degree when brushing the eyelashes at the first makeup time, the viscosity of the mascara, the curling maintenance performance after 18 hours and the makeup effect satisfaction degree.

The test scoring criteria were as follows:

including smoothness evaluation, evenness evaluation and liking degree.

Smoothness degree: 1 minute: the resistance is very large; and 2, dividing: the resistance is large because the roller is not smooth; and 3, dividing: the resistance is not smooth and general; and 4, dividing: smooth without resistance; and 5, dividing: is very smooth and has no resistance.

Evaluation of degree of tackiness (degree of leveling) of paste: 1 minute: very thin; and 2, dividing: generally thin; and 3, dividing: the viscosity is moderate; and 4, dividing: too sticky; and 5, dividing: too sticky and sticky, causes legs of flies.

Curl maintenance after 18 hours: 1 minute: a difference; and 2, dividing: poor performance; and 3, dividing: generally; and 4, dividing: better; and 5, dividing: good results are obtained.

The degree of liking: 1 minute: are very dislike; and 2, dividing: dislike; and 3, dividing: generally; and 4, dividing: liking; and 5, dividing: are very much preferred.

The testers score according to the scoring standards, and finally, the total scores are counted to calculate the average value, and the specific scoring results are shown in table 3.

As can be seen from Table 3, the mascara pastes prepared in examples 1-3 have moderate viscosity and smoothness during application, and can still maintain the curling effect for 18h, wherein the effect of example 1 is the best.

Use malic acid + trimethylsiloxysilicate in comparison to the comparative example 1 composition, the comparative example 2 composition using cystine bis-PG-propylsilanetriol + trimethylsiloxysilicate; compared with the composition of the comparative example 3, the film forming agent VP/hexadecene copolymer is used for replacing trimethylsiloxysilicate, the comparative example 4 is used for replacing malic acid, and the comparative example 5 is used for replacing cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol by lysine; compared with the compositions of comparative examples 7 and 8, the composition lacks cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol and malic acid in sequence, but the total consumption of the composition is the same as that of example 1, and the malic acid, trimethylsiloxysilicate and cystine bis-PG-propyl silanetriol are compounded in example 1, so that the synergistic effect is achieved, when the composition is applied to mascara, the smoothness degree of the mascara can be effectively improved, the setting effect of the mascara is prolonged, and the effect difference of the mascara is obvious from that of comparative examples 1-5 and comparative examples 7-8.

Comparative example 6 used a composition with a higher amount of trimethylsiloxysilicate than the examples and lower amounts of malic acid and cysteamine bis-PG-propylsilanetriol than the examples. As can be seen from the results of the performance test of comparative example 6 in Table 3, the components of the composition provided by the present invention are advantageous in enhancing the smoothness of mascara and prolonging the setting effect of mascara within a certain compounding ratio range.

TABLE 3 evaluation results of various performances of mascaras prepared in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8

Example 5

This example tests the hardness of mascara pastes obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8.

The test method comprises the following steps:

a machine: viscometer

The range is as follows: 2kg of

An adapter: 20mm phi flat plate

Rising speed: 6 cm/min

Entering distance: 10mm

Measuring a container: 30mL ointment bottle (25 deg.C)

And (4) putting the material body bottle into a rotor, and measuring the hardness.

The measurement was carried out after placing in a 30mL ointment bottle and standing at 25 ℃ for 24 hours, and the measurement results are shown in Table 4.

From the results in table 4, it can be seen that the amount of film former used in the mascara formulation directly affects the hardness of the mascara cream. The film forming agents of the examples 1, 2, 1-2, 4-5 and 7-8 have the same dosage, and the mascaras prepared by the film forming agents have moderate hardness. Comparative example 6 the film former was used in a higher amount and its hardness was relatively higher.

Combining the results of tables 3 and 4, it can be seen that the film-forming agent used in example 2 is slightly higher than that used in example 1, and the mascara composition of example 2 has slightly higher hardness than that of example 1, but the hardness of the mascara compositions prepared in examples 1 and 2 is in a proper range and the smoothness is substantially the same; example 2 compared to comparative example 6, comparative example 6 mascara cream was used in a slightly higher amount than example 2, but comparative example 6 mascara cream was much harder than example 2. The above results demonstrate that the film forming agent trimethylsiloxysilicate in the composition provided by the embodiment of the present invention can be combined with the conditioning agents malic acid and cystine bis-PG-propylsilanetriol in a certain dosage range, so that the mascara has both suitable hardness and excellent smoothness.

TABLE 4 hardness of mascaras obtained in examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 8

The above-mentioned embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention, and not for limiting the same; although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be understood by those of ordinary skill in the art that: the technical solutions described in the foregoing embodiments may still be modified, or some technical features may be equivalently replaced; and such modifications or substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the corresponding technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention.