阅读说明：本技术 一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺 (Fur-wool integrated cloth and production process thereof ) 是由 奚炳华 陆建明 陆伟 钱燕 张秋蕾 于 2020-12-08 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明属于针织纬编面料的设计及生产工艺领域,具体涉及一种皮毛一体布及生产工艺。所述皮毛一体布采用纬编双面机结构制成,所述皮毛一体布面料的正面采用222dtex/96F涤纶长丝、反面采用21SJC,中间连接纱采用83dtex/36F涤纶长丝。本发明采用纬编双面布结构,线圈两面受力平衡,结构稳定,布面更加平整,手感柔软,透气性和吸水性更好,此面料有复合面料的各类特性,但改善了复合面料的手感硬,易脱胶、起泡、不环保、缩短了面料制造生产周期,降低了生产成本。(The invention belongs to the field of design and production processes of knitted weft-knitted fabrics, and particularly relates to fur-wool integrated cloth and a production process thereof. The fur-wool integrated cloth is made of a weft knitting double-faced machine structure, the front face of the fur-wool integrated cloth fabric is made of 222dtex/96F polyester filament yarns, the back face of the fur-wool integrated cloth fabric is made of 21SJC, and the middle connecting yarns are made of 83dtex/36F polyester filament yarns. The weft-knitted double-faced fabric has the advantages that the weft-knitted double-faced fabric structure is adopted, the two faces of the coil are stressed in balance, the structure is stable, the fabric surface is smoother, the hand feeling is soft, the air permeability and the water absorption are better, the fabric has various characteristics of the composite fabric, the hard hand feeling, the easiness in degumming and foaming of the composite fabric are improved, the environment is not protected, the fabric manufacturing production period is shortened, and the production cost is reduced.)

1. The fur-wool integrated cloth is characterized by being made of a weft knitting double-sided machine structure, the front face of the fur-wool integrated cloth fabric is made of 222dtex/96F polyester filament yarns, the back face of the fur-wool integrated cloth fabric is made of 21SJC, and the middle connecting yarns are made of 83dtex/36F polyester filament yarns.

2. The fur-wool integrated fabric as claimed in claim 1, wherein the gray fabric weaving machine type wool height of the fabric is 20-35mm, and the gram weight of the gray fabric is 180-550 g.

3. The production process of the fur-wool integrated fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the fabric is in a weft knitting double face machine structure, the diameter of a needle cylinder is 914mm, the needle pitch is 16/22 needles per inch, the number of incoming lines is 16, two-stage needle arrangement of an upper needle disc ABAB is pointed, 10 paths are adopted for one cycle during knitting, no yarn is hung on the upper needle cylinder 1, 3, 6 and 8, 21SJC is hung on the upper needle cylinder 4, 5, 9 and 10, and 83dtex/36F is hung on the upper needle cylinder 2 and 7; the 1 st needle path of the lower needle cylinder is a knife, the 2 nd and 3 rd needle paths are hooks, and the 4 th needle path is a needle; wherein, the No. 1, No. 2, No. 6 and No. 7 are taken out of the needle, the hook is the fine dried yarn 222dtex/96F polyester filament, the needle is the connecting yarn and the binding yarn, namely 83dtex/36F polyester filament and the surface yarn 222dtex/96F polyester filament; the 3 rd and 8 th paths are needle-out and looping; the upper dial of the 4 th and 9 th ways is a full needle outlet, and the lower side is a cutter outlet; and (5) fully withdrawing the needles from the dial on the 5 th path and the 10 th path to obtain the fur integrated cloth.

4. The production process of the fur-containing fabric according to claim 3, further comprising a post-finishing process of the fur-containing fabric, comprising steps of pre-setting, dyeing with a top-running dye vat, top-softening, dewatering, drying, carding, shaking and setting of a finished product, wherein the dewatering step adopts a mechanical centrifugal dehydrator, the dewatering time is 15 minutes, the water content is 0.5%, the shaking adopts the steps of placing the fabric in a shaking cylinder, heating to 120 ℃, shaking for 60 minutes to enable the fluff to be agglomerated into particles, and cooling for 10 minutes to obtain the fabric.

5. The production process of the fur-containing fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the pre-setting process parameters are set as follows: the temperatures of 10 sections of drying ovens of the setting machine are 175 ℃, 178 ℃, 185 ℃, 190 ℃, 195 ℃, 192 ℃, 188 ℃, 182 ℃, 178 ℃, 173 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 35m/min, the hair side of the gray fabric faces upwards, the smooth side faces downwards, the gray fabric is arranged along the hair during setting, the setting temperature is 185-190 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, and the lower air quantity is 1400 RPM.

6. The production process of the fur-containing fabric according to claim 3, wherein the dyeing process comprises the following dye auxiliary formula: calculated according to the weight percentage of the grey cloth, the weight percentage of the grey cloth comprises 0.88 percent of disperse red; disperse yellow 1.34%; disperse blue 0.26%; calculated according to the bath ratio water, the bath ratio water comprises glacial acetic acid with the concentration of 98% and 0.5-1 g/L; high-temperature leveling agent DO-22030.5-1 g/L; 0.5-1g/L of Yajieli TS-E.

7. The production process of the fur-containing fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the dyeing process comprises the following steps: adopting a top-running dye vat, feeding cloth, water and dye chemicals at the normal temperature of 30 ℃, controlling the bath ratio at 1:8-10, controlling the heating rate at 1.0 ℃/min, heating to 80 ℃, controlling the heating rate at 1.5 ℃/min, heating to 120 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20 min, cooling to below 60 ℃ at the rate of 3.0 ℃/min, draining, washing with hot water for 15-20 min, and discharging the cloth.

8. The production process of the fur-containing integral fabric according to claim 3, wherein the upper softening comprises the following steps: adopt gentle machine on rope form formula three groove, two preceding groove washings, a back groove adds gentle auxiliary agent, it includes to go up gentle auxiliary agent: 1.8% of smoothing agent, 0.2% of hydrophilic softening agent, 0.5% of mugwort agent, 0.5% of antistatic agent and the balance of water, wherein the flow rate of the upper softening auxiliary agent is 60-70RPM, and the process is completed in 5 minutes.

9. The production process of the fur-containing fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the drying step comprises the following steps: drying by a setting machine, wherein the rough surface of the colored cloth faces upwards, the smooth surface faces downwards, the vehicle speed is 28m/min, the setting temperature is 150 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, and the lower air quantity is 1700 RPM.

10. The production process of the fur-containing cloth as claimed in claim 3, wherein the carding comprises the following steps: using a 36-bar card, card pin type: straight needle; the speed is 13 m/min, the tension is 1.0/1.03/1.12, the cloth is discharged 1.09, the left brushing rate is 18, the right brushing rate is 18, the pile face is uniform and smooth due to the consistency of the left brush and the right brush, the carding speed is gradually enhanced from weak to weak, the pile face is uniform due to the tension, and the excessive damage to the fabric caused by one-step strong pile-up can be avoided; combing to the base of the flannelette.

11. The production process of the fur-containing fabric as claimed in claim 3, wherein the setting of the finished product comprises the following steps: drying by a setting machine, wherein the rough surface of the colored cloth faces upwards, the smooth surface faces downwards, the vehicle speed is 34m/min, the setting temperature is 150 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, the lower air quantity is 1000RPM, and overfeeding is 10%.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of design and production processes of knitted weft-knitted fabrics, and particularly relates to fur-wool integrated cloth and a production process thereof.

Background

The existing weft knitting fabrics can be divided into a single-side fabric structure and a double-side fabric structure. When the single-sided cloth structure is adopted, the edge is easy to curl, the crease is easy to fold, and the crease is easy to fall off. When the weft-knitted double-sided fabric structure is adopted, under the condition that the stress on the front side and the back side of a coil is balanced, the turned edge is improved to some extent, the fabric surface is smoother, the hand feeling is soft, the flexibility is good, the air permeability and the water absorption are better, the ironing and crease resistance are avoided, the fabric is easy to manage, the fabric has various characteristics of the composite fabric, the hand feeling of the composite fabric is improved, the bound feeling during movement is felt when the fabric is in contact with the skin, the degumming and foaming are easy to occur, the environment is not protected, the fabric manufacturing production period is shortened, and.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide fur-wool integrated cloth and a production process thereof, wherein the fur-wool integrated cloth is stable in structure, smooth in cloth cover, soft in hand feeling, better in air permeability and water absorbability, short in manufacturing period and low in cost.

In order to solve the technical problems, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:

the fur-wool integrated cloth is made of a weft knitting double-faced machine structure, the front surface of the fur-wool integrated cloth fabric is made of 222dtex/96F polyester filament yarns, the back surface of the fur-wool integrated cloth fabric is made of 21SJC, and the middle connecting yarns are made of 83dtex/36F polyester filament yarns.

According to the fur-wool integrated fabric, the gray fabric weaving type wool height of the fabric is 20-35mm, and the gram weight of the gray fabric is 180-550 g.

According to the production process of the fur-wool integrated fabric, the fabric adopts a weft knitting double-face machine structure, the diameter of a needle cylinder is 914mm, the needle pitch is 16/22 needles per inch, the number of incoming lines is 16, two sections of row needles of an upper needle disc ABAB are pointed, 10 paths of the needles are circulated during knitting, the 1 st, 3 rd, 6 th and 8 th needles of the upper needle cylinder do not hang yarns, the 4 th, 5 th, 9 th and 10 th needles hang 21SJC, and the 2 nd and 7 th needles hang connecting yarns 83 dtex/36F; the 1 st needle path of the lower needle cylinder is a knife, the 2 nd and 3 rd needle paths are hooks, and the 4 th needle path is a needle; wherein, the No. 1, No. 2, No. 6 and No. 7 are taken out of the needle, the hook is the fine dried yarn 222dtex/96F polyester filament, the needle is the connecting yarn and the binding yarn, namely 83dtex/36F polyester filament and the surface yarn 222dtex/96F polyester filament; the 3 rd and 8 th paths are needle-out and looping; the upper dial of the 4 th and 9 th ways is a full needle outlet, and the lower side is a cutter outlet; and (5) fully withdrawing the needles from the dial on the 5 th path and the 10 th path to obtain the fur integrated cloth.

The production process of the fur-containing fabric also comprises a post-finishing process of the fur-containing fabric, and comprises the steps of pre-shaping, dyeing by using an upper-moving dye vat, softening, dehydrating, drying, carding, shaking and shaping a finished product, wherein a mechanical centrifugal dehydrator is adopted in the dehydrating step, the dehydrating time is 15 minutes, the water content is 0.5 percent, the shaking is realized by placing the fabric in a shaking cylinder, heating to 120 ℃, shaking for 60 minutes to enable fluff to be granular, and cooling for 10 minutes to discharge the fabric.

The production process of the fur-wool integrated cloth comprises the following steps of: the temperatures of 10 sections of drying ovens of the setting machine are 175 ℃, 178 ℃, 185 ℃, 190 ℃, 195 ℃, 192 ℃, 188 ℃, 182 ℃, 178 ℃, 173 ℃, the speed of the vehicle is 35m/min, the hair side of the gray fabric faces upwards, the smooth side faces downwards, the gray fabric is arranged along the hair during setting, the setting temperature is 185-190 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, and the lower air quantity is 1400 RPM.

In the production process of the fur-wool integrated cloth, the dyeing material auxiliary formula of the dyeing process is as follows: calculated according to the weight percentage of the grey cloth, the weight percentage of the grey cloth comprises 0.88 percent of disperse red; disperse yellow 1.34%; disperse blue 0.26%; calculated according to the bath ratio water, the bath ratio water comprises glacial acetic acid with the concentration of 98% and 0.5-1 g/L; high-temperature leveling agent DO-22030.5-1 g/L; 0.5-1g/L of Yajieli TS-E.

The production process of the fur-wool integrated cloth comprises the following steps: adopting a top-running dye vat, feeding cloth, water and dye chemicals at the normal temperature of 30 ℃, controlling the bath ratio at 1:8-10, controlling the heating rate at 1.0 ℃/min, heating to 80 ℃, controlling the heating rate at 1.5 ℃/min, heating to 120 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20 min, cooling to below 60 ℃ at the rate of 3.0 ℃/min, draining, washing with hot water for 15-20 min, and discharging the cloth.

The production process of the fur integrated cloth comprises the following steps: adopt gentle machine on rope form formula three groove, two preceding groove washings, a back groove adds gentle auxiliary agent, it includes to go up gentle auxiliary agent: 1.8% of smoothing agent, 0.2% of hydrophilic softening agent, 0.5% of mugwort agent, 0.5% of antistatic agent and the balance of water, wherein the flow rate of the upper softening auxiliary agent is 60-70RPM, and the process is completed in 5 minutes.

The production process of the fur-wool integrated cloth comprises the following steps of: drying by a setting machine, wherein the rough surface of the colored cloth faces upwards, the smooth surface faces downwards, the vehicle speed is 28m/min, the setting temperature is 150 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, and the lower air quantity is 1700 RPM.

According to the production process of the fur-wool integrated cloth, the carding comprises the following steps: using a 36-bar card, card pin type: straight needle; the speed is 13 m/min, the tension is 1.0/1.03/1.12, the cloth is discharged 1.09, the left brushing rate is 18, the right brushing rate is 18, the pile face is uniform and smooth due to the consistency of the left brush and the right brush, the carding speed is gradually enhanced from weak to weak, the pile face is uniform due to the tension, and the excessive damage to the fabric caused by one-step strong pile-up can be avoided; combing to the base of the flannelette.

According to the production process of the fur-wool integrated cloth, the finished product shaping comprises the following steps: drying by a setting machine, wherein the rough surface of the colored cloth faces upwards, the smooth surface faces downwards, the vehicle speed is 34m/min, the setting temperature is 150 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, the lower air quantity is 1000RPM, and overfeeding is 10%.

Has the advantages that:

the weft-knitted double-faced fabric has the advantages that the weft-knitted double-faced fabric structure is adopted, the two faces of the coil are stressed in balance, the structure is stable, the fabric surface is smoother, the hand feeling is soft, the air permeability and the water absorption are better, the fabric has various characteristics of the composite fabric, the hard hand feeling, the easiness in degumming and foaming of the composite fabric are improved, the environment is not protected, the fabric manufacturing production period is shortened, and the production cost is reduced.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a schematic drawing of the thread feeding structure of the weft knitting double-sided machine of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the number of feed lines of the double-sided weft knitting machine of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the dyeing process of the present invention.

Detailed Description

The following explains the present invention in detail.

Examples

The invention adopts a weft knitting double-sided machine structure, the front surface of the fabric adopts 222dtex/96F polyester filament, the back surface of the fabric is 21SJC, the middle chain yarn connecting 83dtex/36F polyester filament, the tension of yarn count is strictly controlled during knitting, the size is proper and uniform, the drawing and coiling tension is proper, and a knitting machine directly cuts and rolls. Weaving according to specific weaving process parameters, presetting, dyeing, softening, dehydrating, drying, carding, shaking and sizing to prepare the fabric, wherein the height of the gray fabric in a gray fabric weaving machine is 20-35mm, the gram weight of the gray fabric is 180-550G, the yarn count specification can be correspondingly adjusted according to the gram weight of the gray fabric, and the tissue structure can be diversified; the syringe diameter was 9mm (36 inches), gauge 16/22 needles/inch, and the number of feed lines was 16.

Referring to fig. 1 and 2, the invention refers to two-section needle arrangement of an upper needle dial ABAB, wherein 10 paths of needles are used for one circulation during knitting, the 1 st, 3 rd, 6 th and 8 th needles of an upper needle cylinder do not hang yarns, the 4 th, 5 th, 9 th and 10 th needles hang 21SJC, and the 2 nd and 7 th needles hang connecting yarns 83 dtex/36F; the 1 st needle path of the lower needle cylinder is a knife, the 2 nd and 3 rd needle paths are hooks, and the 4 th needle path is a needle. Wherein, the 1 st, the 2 nd, the 6 th and the 7 th are hook needles, the hooks are 222dtex/96F polyester filament yarns of the fine dried noodles, and the needles are connecting yarns and binding yarns (83dtex/36F polyester filament yarns and 222dtex/96F polyester filament yarns of the surface yarns); the 3 rd and 8 th paths are needle-out and looping; the upper dial of the 4 th and 9 th ways is a full needle outlet, and the lower side is a cutter outlet; and the dial on the 5 th and 10 th ways is completely drawn out. The drawing and coiling tension is appropriate, and the knitting machine directly cuts and rolls the fabric, which means that when the normal knitting of the knitting machine is ensured, the drawing and coiling tension is smaller than that of the same type under the common condition, and when the bottom of the knitting machine is provided with a fabric bottom machine, the fabric is cut and rolled immediately.

The fabric after-finishing process flow comprises the following steps: presetting → dyeing → upper softness → dewatering → drying → combing → shaking → shaping of finished product

The pre-setting process comprises the following steps: the temperature of 10 sections of drying ovens of the setting machine is respectively 175 ℃, 178 ℃, 185 ℃, 190 ℃, 195 ℃, 192 ℃, 188 ℃, 182 ℃, 178 ℃, 173 ℃, the vehicle speed is 35m/min, the hair side of the gray fabric is upward, the smooth side is downward, the fabric is fed along the hair during setting, the setting temperature is 185-190 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, the lower air quantity is 1400RPM, and the setting is flat;

the dyeing process comprises the following steps: with reference to figure 3 of the drawings,

adopting a top-running dye vat, feeding cloth and water at the normal temperature of 30 ℃, feeding a dyeing material auxiliary agent, and adopting a dyeing material auxiliary agent formula of a dyeing process: calculated according to the weight percentage of the grey cloth, the weight percentage of the grey cloth comprises 0.88 percent of disperse red; disperse yellow 1.34%; disperse blue 0.26%; calculated according to the bath ratio water, the bath ratio water comprises glacial acetic acid with the concentration of 98% and 0.5-1 g/L; high-temperature leveling agent DO-22030.5-1 g/L; 0.5-1g/L of Yajieli TS-E. Controlling the bath ratio at 1:8-10, controlling the heating rate at 1.0 ℃/min, heating to 80 ℃, controlling the heating rate at 1.5 ℃/min, heating to 120 ℃, keeping the temperature for 20 min, cooling to below 60 ℃ at the rate of 3.0 ℃/min, discharging liquid, washing with hot water for 15-20 min after discharging liquid, and then discharging and softening;

and (3) an upper softening process: the rope-shaped three-groove upper softening machine is characterized in that the front two grooves are washed by water, the last groove is added with a softening auxiliary agent, the formula of the upper softening auxiliary agent comprises a softening agent YX-2022.91.8%, a hydrophilic softening agent XY-7010.2%, a blumea acid agent CID 0.5%, an antistatic agent XY-1900.5% and the balance of water, the flow rate of the upper softening auxiliary agent is 60-70RPM, the process is finished in 5 minutes, and then the upper softening auxiliary agent is dehydrated and dried;

and (3) a dehydration process: a mechanical centrifugal dehydrator is used for dehydrating for 15 minutes, and the water content is 0.5%;

and (3) drying process: drying the setting machine, wherein the rough surface of the colored cloth faces upwards, the smooth surface faces downwards, the vehicle speed is 28m/min, the setting temperature is 150 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, the lower air quantity is 1700RPM, and leveling is carried out; the temperature is lower than the preset temperature during drying, the speed is slow, the temperature is too high, and the shape is changed;

the carding process comprises the following steps: using a 36-bar card, card pin type: straight needle; the speed is 13 m/min, the tension is 1.0/1.03/1.12, the cloth is discharged 1.09, the left brush bristle rate is 18, the right brush bristle rate is 18, the pile faces are uniform and smooth due to the fact that the left brushes and the right brushes are consistent, the combing speed is gradually enhanced from weak to weak, the pile faces are thick, the pile faces are uniform due to the fact that the tension is consistent, and the excessive damage to the fabric caused by one-step strong pile forming can be avoided; combing to a flannelette base;

a granule shaking process: heating the fabric in a granule shaking cylinder to 120 ℃, shaking the granules for 60 minutes to enable the fluff to be granular, cooling for 10 minutes and discharging the fabric;

the forming and determining process comprises the following steps: and (3) drying the setting machine, wherein the rough surface of the colored cloth faces upwards, the smooth surface faces downwards, the vehicle speed is 34m/min, the setting temperature is 150 ℃, the upper air quantity is 800RPM, the lower air quantity is 1000RPM, and overfeeding is 10%, so that the good water shrinkage rate of the cloth surface is ensured.

The invention adopts a weft-knitted double-sided fabric structure, the two sides of the coil are stressed in balance, the structure is stable, the characteristic of spandex easy to cut is utilized, a novel weaving and dyeing and finishing process is invented, and the problems that the elastic fabric is easy to curl, wrinkle, crease and loose and is difficult to control in cutting and sewing are thoroughly solved. The fabric can be further subjected to laser punching, hole cutting and post-processing by utilizing thermoplastic forming such as mould pressing of bra cups, and has the advantages of smooth fabric surface, soft hand feeling, stable shape and no falling off. The spandex easy to cut has extremely high heat setting benefit, the processing temperature can be lower, and the processing time can be shortened, so that the energy consumption is saved to a certain extent, and meanwhile, the process disclosed by the invention can still ensure that the fabric has excellent extensibility and elastic recovery performance.

The above description is only an embodiment of the present invention, and not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all modifications of equivalent structures and equivalent processes performed by the present specification and drawings, or directly or indirectly applied to other related technical fields, are included in the scope of the present invention.