阅读说明：本技术 一种修复皮肤屏障的组合物及其制备方法和应用 (Composition for repairing skin barrier and preparation method and application thereof ) 是由 刘露 张娇 韩志东 于 2020-06-19 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及一种修复皮肤屏障的组合物,包含如下质量百分比的组分：活性物0.5％-15％,囊泡成分5％-45％,余量为去离子水；其中,所述活性物包含如下重量份的组分：烟酰胺0.1-5份,四氢甲基嘧啶羧酸0.1-5份,0.1％裂褶菌素0.1-10份,海岸松树皮/芽提取物5-35份,葡糖酸钙0.05-2份；所述囊泡成分包含如下重量份的组分：甘油5-25份,氢化卵磷脂0.01-5份,磷脂酰胆碱1-8份,油脂1-10份,角鲨烷1-10份,青刺果油0.5-15份。本发明的组合物能修复皮肤屏障,对于健康的皮肤能增强其屏障功能；本发明的组合物全面考虑了皮肤屏障受损的途径,创新地考虑了化学屏障、抗氧化屏障、光防护屏障以及微生物屏障,多维角度进行敏感肌肤修复。(The invention relates to a composition for repairing skin barrier, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5-15% of active matter, 5-45% of vesicle component and the balance of deionized water; the active matter comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-5 parts of tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.1-10 parts of 0.1% schizophyllan, 5-35 parts of maritime pine bark/bud extract and 0.05-2 parts of calcium gluconate; the vesicle component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-25 parts of glycerol, 0.01-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 1-8 parts of phosphatidylcholine, 1-10 parts of grease, 1-10 parts of squalane and 0.5-15 parts of prinsepia utilis royle oil. The composition of the invention can repair the skin barrier and enhance the barrier function of healthy skin; the composition comprehensively considers the approach of skin barrier damage, innovatively considers a chemical barrier, an antioxidant barrier, a light protection barrier and a microorganism barrier, and carries out sensitive skin repair in a multi-dimensional angle.)

1. The composition for repairing the skin barrier is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5-15% of active matter, 5-45% of vesicle component and the balance of deionized water;

the active matter comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-5 parts of tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.1-10 parts of 0.1% schizophyllan, 5-35 parts of maritime pine bark/bud extract and 0.05-2 parts of calcium gluconate;

the vesicle component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-25 parts of glycerol, 0.01-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 1-8 parts of phosphatidylcholine, 1-10 parts of grease, 1-10 parts of squalane and 0.5-15 parts of prinsepia utilis royle oil.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of active matter, 30% of vesicle component and the balance of deionized water;

the active matter comprises the following components in parts by weight: 3 parts of nicotinamide, 2.5 parts of tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, 3 parts of 0.1% schizophyllan, 10 parts of maritime pine bark/bud extract and 0.1 part of calcium gluconate;

the vesicle component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of glycerol, 1.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 3 parts of phosphatidylcholine, 8 parts of oil and fat, 6 parts of squalane and 9 parts of prinsepia utilis royle oil.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil is a mixture of cholesterol, ceramide and fatty acid, and the mass ratio of the cholesterol, the ceramide and the fatty acid is 3:1: 1-1: 1: 1.

4. The composition of claim 3, wherein the oil is a mixture of cholesterol, ceramide and fatty acid, and the mass ratio of the cholesterol, the ceramide and the fatty acid is 3:1: 1.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is at least one of linoleic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.

6. A process for the preparation of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising the steps of:

(1) mixing the active substance, glycerol and deionized water, and keeping the temperature to obtain a water phase;

(2) stirring and mixing the rest components except the glycerol in the vesicle component uniformly, and keeping the temperature to obtain an oil phase;

(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (1) under the action of shearing force, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (2) into the water phase obtained in the step (1), and continuously homogenizing to obtain primary emulsion;

(4) homogenizing the colostrum obtained in the step (3) in a high-pressure homogenizer to obtain the composition for repairing the skin barrier.

7. The method according to claim 6, wherein the temperature is maintained at 45 to 55 ℃ in the steps (1) and (2).

8. The method according to claim 6, wherein the shear rotation speed in the step (3) is 8000 to 15000r/min, and the time for continuing the homogenization is 2 to 5 min.

9. The method according to claim 6, wherein in the step (4), the homogenization pressure is 600 to 1500bar, and the number of homogenization times is 6 to 9.

10. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in the cosmetic field.

Technical Field

The invention relates to a composition for repairing skin barrier, a preparation method and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics.

Background

According to the Chinese consensus on sensitive skin diagnosis and treatment, Sensitive Skin (SS) refers to a high-response state of skin under physiological or pathological conditions, mainly occurs on the face, and clinically shows that the skin is easy to have subjective symptoms such as burning, stabbing pain, pruritus and tightness when being stimulated by physical, chemical, mental and other factors, and is accompanied or not accompanied by objective signs such as erythema, scale, telangiectasia and the like. Sensitive skin has a high incidence in all countries of the world, and the incidence reported in different regions has a large difference due to different investigation methods, namely 25.4% -89.9% in europe and about 50% in australia. The incidence rate of women is generally higher than that of men, the incidence rate of American women is 22.3-50.9%, the incidence rate of Asian women is 40-55.98%, and the incidence rate of Chinese women is 36.1%. Along with the increasing environmental pollution and mental stress, the incidence rate of the pollution is gradually increased and the people pay more and more attention. The sensitive skin accounts for 40-55.98% of Asian women and 36.1% of China women. Therefore, the sensitive skin becomes an important factor which troubles the life of women in China.

The development of sensitive skin is currently considered to be a complex process involving the skin barrier-neurovascular-immunoinflammation. Under the interaction of internal and external factors, the barrier function of the skin is damaged, so that the sensory nerve afferent signals are increased, the skin has enhanced responsiveness to external stimulation, and the skin immune inflammatory response is initiated. Impaired skin barrier is an important trigger for the development of sensitive skin and a circulatory factor.

The skin barrier in chivalrous sense refers to the physical barrier (including the sebaceous membrane and the skin brick wall structure), the immune barrier and the nerve barrier. Skin in the broad sense is not only a physical barrier but also a microbial barrier, a photoprotective barrier, a chemical barrier, an antioxidant barrier. The problem of sensitive skin is solved in a whole way, and the method not only repairs the existing barrier damage, but also prevents and strengthens the barrier function of the skin. To this end, the present invention has developed a composition for repairing the skin barrier, aiming not only to repair but also to prevent, and enhance the skin barrier.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention has been made to overcome the above-mentioned disadvantages of the prior art and to provide a composition for repairing skin barrier, which can repair skin barrier and enhance barrier function for healthy skin, a method for preparing the same, and use thereof.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the technical scheme that: a composition for repairing skin barrier comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.5-15% of active matter, 5-45% of vesicle component and the balance of deionized water;

the active matter comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.1-5 parts of nicotinamide, 0.1-5 parts of tetrahydro-methyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.1-10 parts of 0.1% schizophyllan, 5-35 parts of maritime pine bark/bud extract and 0.05-2 parts of calcium gluconate;

the vesicle component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 5-25 parts of glycerol, 0.01-5 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 1-8 parts of phosphatidylcholine, 1-10 parts of grease, 1-10 parts of squalane and 0.5-15 parts of prinsepia utilis royle oil.

The composition prepared by adopting nicotinamide, tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, 0.1% schizophyllan, maritime pine bark/bud extract and calcium gluconate as active substances and adopting glycerol, hydrogenated lecithin, phosphatidylcholine, grease, squalane and prinsepia utilis royle oil as vesicle components can repair skin barriers and enhance the barrier function of healthy skin.

In the above components, glycerol is used as auxiliary emulsifier, and hydrogenated lecithin and phosphatidyl choline are used as emulsifier.

As a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 5% of active matter, 30% of vesicle component and the balance of deionized water;

the active matter comprises the following components in parts by weight: 3 parts of nicotinamide, 2.5 parts of tetrahydro-methylpyrimidine carboxylic acid, 3 parts of 0.1% schizophyllan, 10 parts of maritime pine bark/bud extract and 0.1 part of calcium gluconate;

the vesicle component comprises the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of glycerol, 1.2 parts of hydrogenated lecithin, 3 parts of phosphatidylcholine, 8 parts of oil and fat, 6 parts of squalane and 9 parts of prinsepia utilis royle oil. Under the condition of the mixture ratio, the prepared composition has better skin barrier repairing effect.

In a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the fat is a mixture of cholesterol, ceramide and fatty acid, and the mass ratio of the cholesterol, the ceramide and the fatty acid is 3:1:1 to 1:1: 1.

In a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the fat is a mixture of cholesterol, ceramide and fatty acid, and the mass ratio of the cholesterol, the ceramide and the fatty acid is 3:1: 1. Under the condition of the mixture ratio, the prepared composition has better skin barrier repairing effect.

As a preferred embodiment of the composition of the present invention, the fatty acid is at least one of linoleic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid and linolenic acid.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a process for preparing the above composition, comprising the steps of:

(1) mixing the active substance, glycerol and deionized water, and keeping the temperature to obtain a water phase;

(2) stirring and mixing the rest components except the glycerol in the vesicle component uniformly, and keeping the temperature to obtain an oil phase;

(3) stirring the water phase obtained in the step (1) under the action of shearing force, slowly adding the oil phase obtained in the step (2) into the water phase obtained in the step (1), and continuously homogenizing to obtain primary emulsion;

(4) homogenizing the colostrum obtained in the step (3) in a high-pressure homogenizer to obtain the composition for repairing the skin barrier.

In a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, the temperature is maintained at 45 to 55 ℃ in the step (1) and the step (2).

As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the invention, in the step (3), the rotating speed of the shearing force is 8000-15000 r/min, and the time for continuing homogenizing is 2-5 min.

In the preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, in the step (4), the homogenization pressure is 600 to 1500bar, and the number of times of homogenization is 6 to 9.

The compound prepared by the method is a nano compound, and the particle size is 110-131 nm.

In a third aspect, the present invention provides the use of the above composition in the cosmetic field.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: the composition of the invention can repair the skin barrier and enhance the barrier function of healthy skin; the composition comprehensively considers the approach of skin barrier damage, innovatively considers a chemical barrier, an antioxidant barrier, a light protection barrier and a microorganism barrier, and carries out sensitive skin repair in a multi-dimensional angle.

Detailed Description

To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples.