阅读说明：本技术 一种桑蚕丝、铜氨丝混纺面料及其制备方法 (Mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric and preparation method thereof ) 是由 黄玺嘉 梁仲华 于 2021-07-15 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明涉及混纺面料技术领域,特别涉及一种桑蚕丝、铜氨丝混纺面料及其制备方法,主要包括并线、高温定型、改性、染色、织造、后整等制备工艺,其中,所述桑蚕丝纱线与所述铜氨丝纱线之间合股的成分比例为60-70:40-30；所述桑蚕丝纱线和铜氨丝纱线的单股捻度为680-700捻,所述桑蚕丝纱线和铜氨丝纱线的合股捻度为580-600捻,本发明中桑蚕丝、铜氨丝混纺面料的制备方法,通过调整桑蚕丝纱线、铜氨丝纱线之间的比例,并进一步的调整单股倍捻、合股倍捻的捻度,使得制得的面料纱线密度紧实,丝头较少,面料的品质具有很大的提升,混纺面料具有全真丝的手感、光泽度、垂度。(The invention relates to the technical field of blended fabrics, in particular to a mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric and a preparation method thereof, which mainly comprise preparation processes of doubling, high-temperature shaping, modification, dyeing, weaving, post-finishing and the like, wherein the component ratio of the plying between mulberry silk yarns and cuprammonium rayon yarns is 60-70: 40-30; the single-strand twist of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn is 680-700 twist, and the ply twist of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn is 580-600 twist.)

1. A preparation method of mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

step 1, respectively carrying out single-strand double-twisting on a mulberry silk yarn and a cuprammonium rayon yarn, and then carrying out plying and double-twisting on the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn which are subjected to double-twisting in proportion to obtain a first plied yarn raw material;

the twisting degree of the mulberry silk yarns and the cuprammonium rayon yarns is 580-600 twists, and the weight ratio of raw materials for twisting the mulberry silk yarns and the cuprammonium rayon yarns is 60-70: 40-30;

step 2, sequentially carrying out wetting, modification, dyeing, color fixation, rinsing and drying on the first plied yarn raw material to obtain a second plied yarn raw material;

step 3, weaving and post-finishing the second plied yarn raw material to obtain the yarn with the gram weight of 160-²The fabric of (1).

2. The preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric, according to claim 1, is characterized in that the single twist of the mulberry silk yarns and cuprammonium rayon yarns is 680-700 twists, and after the single twist of the mulberry silk yarns and cuprammonium rayon yarns is finished each time, sizing treatment is carried out for 45-55min at the temperature of 85-90 ℃;

and after the two-for-one twisting of the mulberry silk yarns and the cuprammonium rayon yarns is finished, shaping treatment is carried out for 45-55min at the temperature range of 85-90 ℃.

3. The preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that the ratio of the mulberry silk yarns to the cuprammonium rayon yarns in the stranding process is 60-68: 40-32.

4. The preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step 2, the wetting and modifying treatment specifically comprises the following steps: wetting the first plied yarn raw material in a modification solution at normal temperature, raising the temperature of the modification solution to 70-80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 55-60 minutes, and then taking out.

5. The preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric according to claim 4, wherein in the step 2, the dyeing specifically comprises the following steps: immersing the modified first twisted yarn into a dye solution, raising the temperature to 70-80 ℃, and dyeing for 55-60 min; the pH of the dye solution is 3-4; the bath ratio is 1: 25-30.

6. The preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium blended fabric according to claim 5, wherein the pH of the dye solution is adjusted by using an acetic acid solution, and the concentration of the acetic acid solution is 3-5 g/L.

7. The preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that in step 1, the mulberry silk yarns are required to be pretreated before single-strand double-twist, and the pretreatment specifically comprises the following steps:

adding mulberry silk raw material into the treatment solution at room temperature, controlling the bath ratio at 1:25-40, and treating in water bath for 3-5 min; then, heating to 55-65 ℃, keeping for 30-40min for pre-shaping, and then softening the pre-shaped mulberry silk raw material; the treatment solution is a mixed solution of ammonia water, acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide, and the pH value of the treatment solution is 3-4.

8. The method for preparing the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric according to claim 7, wherein in the step 2, the color fixing agent is used for fixing the dyed first plied yarn raw material, the color fixing agent is dissolved in soft water at a concentration of 3% o.w.f. to prepare a color fixing agent solution, and the temperature is raised to 35-40 ℃ and is kept for 15-25 minutes; and then washing the first plied yarns subjected to color fixation by the color fixing agent solution for 10-15 minutes at room temperature, and drying to obtain a second plied yarn raw material.

9. The preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the post-finishing process comprises the following specific steps: washing the woven fabric, adding a softening agent as an auxiliary agent, and controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 15-25, wherein the concentration of the auxiliary agent is 1-5% o.w.f.; the pH value of the solution is 6.5-7, the solution is treated for more than half an hour at 35-40 ℃, and after the washing water treatment is finished, the solution is put on a machine for shaping and treated for 5-10min at the temperature of 140 ℃ to obtain a finished product.

10. A mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric prepared by the preparation method according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of blended fabrics, in particular to a mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon are two materials with relatively excellent performance in textile fabrics, the main component of the mulberry silk is natural animal protein fiber and contains various amino acids, the mulberry silk is the most main raw material for silk weaving, and the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon are smooth and soft, and both air permeability and hygroscopicity meet the requirements of human bodies; but the mulberry silk has the defects of poor wear resistance and easy scratching because the strength of the mulberry silk is reduced by salt in sweat, and the production and cultivation of the mulberry silk are limited by regions, relatively poor in resources and high in price.

The cuprammonium rayon uses cotton linters as raw materials, is a regenerated cellulose fiber prepared by wet spinning, is softer and more comfortable to the touch of the skin due to the thinner single fiber of the cuprammonium rayon, has an antistatic function, still has good touch even if being worn in dry weather, and does not have stuffy feeling and discomfort. In addition, the copper ammonia fiber has good hygroscopicity and strong suspensibility, can be washed frequently, keeps the luster unchanged and does not wrinkle. However, the dyed cuprammonium rayon yarn is affected by cohesive force, and the yarn fluffing and strength reduction occur, so that the weaving is difficult.

With the continuous improvement of the living standard, the requirements of people on various performances of the clothing fabric, such as comfort, health, beauty, safety, environmental protection, and the like, are increasingly improved, and products tending to functionality are gradually popular with consumers in recent years. The comprehensive performance requirements of consumers on the garment materials are also higher and higher. The fabric has the texture and the draping feeling of real silk; meanwhile, the fabric is required to be difficult to fade and not shrink; the two materials are blended, so that defects generated during spinning of a single material can be overcome, and the prepared fabric has the smooth texture of the cuprammonium rayon and the luster of the mulberry silk, is soft in hand feeling, and is moisture-absorbing, breathable, and good in elasticity and drape.

However, in the prior art, the fabric containing mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon has the following technical defects:

the content of copper ammonia silk in the blended fabric on the market is much higher than that of mulberry silk, the strength of the whole yarn is low, and when the copper ammonia silk and the mulberry silk are blended, the twist is limited and cannot be increased, so that the blended fabric is easy to generate the problem of fabric defects such as yarn ends, yarn ends and the like, and the quality of the blended fabric is influenced; and secondly, the fabric has poor hand feeling and does not have the hand feeling and glossiness of real silk because the whole copper ammonia silk content is high, the shrinkage rate is high, the color is easy to fade, the fabric is whitened and the like.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of poor hand feeling, low glossiness, more flaws of the fabric, lower quality and the like of the blended fabric containing high proportion of copper and ammonia in the prior art, and provides the mulberry silk and copper and ammonia blended fabric and the preparation method thereof

In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention provides the following technical scheme:

a preparation method of mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric comprises the following steps:

step 1, respectively carrying out single-strand double-twisting on a mulberry silk yarn and a cuprammonium rayon yarn, and then carrying out plying and double-twisting on the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn which are subjected to double-twisting in proportion to obtain a first plied yarn raw material;

the twisting degree of the mulberry silk yarns and the cuprammonium rayon yarns is 580-600 twists, and the weight ratio of raw materials for twisting the mulberry silk yarns and the cuprammonium rayon yarns is 60-70: 40-30;

step 2, sequentially carrying out wetting, modification, dyeing, color fixation, rinsing and drying on the first plied yarn raw material to obtain a second plied yarn raw material;

step 3, weaving and post-finishing the second plied yarn raw material to obtain the yarn with the gram weight of 160-²The fabric of (1).

Through a large number of production tests, the inventor finds that in order to solve the problems of more yarn ends and easiness in shrinkage existing in the fabric, the strength of the folded yarn needs to be improved through twisting, the twisting can enable the spun staple yarn to be tightly cohered, the yarn has better mechanical strength, meanwhile, for filaments, the twisting can further improve the processability of a weaving process, the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn, such as strength, elasticity, elongation, luster, hand feeling and the like, the requirement of soft hand feeling is met, and the smooth weaving is facilitated.

However, in the existing preparation process of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric, the twist of the yarn is not easy to increase due to the fact that the content of cuprammonium rayon is high; in order to overcome the defect, the proportion of the blended fabric is adjusted, after the proportion of the mulberry silk yarns is properly improved, the strength of the yarns is increased, the luster, the hand feeling, the washing change rate, the washing appearance change, the water color fastness and the light color fastness are further improved, the twist degree of the yarns can be further increased in the stranding and double-twisting process, the cohesive force between the stranded yarns is further enhanced, the gaps between the yarns are greatly reduced, and the burrs during weaving are reduced.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ratio of the twisted pair of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn is 60 to 68: 40-32. The blended fabric prepared subsequently according to the proportion is close to the excellent characteristics of full-silk natural protein fibers, is cool and breathable, has comfortable hand feeling, does not irritate skin, is harmless to people and is uvioresistant. More preferably, the ratio of the combined silk of the mulberry silk yarns and the cuprammonium rayon yarns is 62-66: 38-34. The blended fabric obtained according to the proportion range has fewer defects of silk ends, yarn ends and other fabrics, and the woven fabric has proper density and is not easy to shrink.

In order to reduce the number of filament ends, increase bursting strength and raise and ball level, the single twist of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn is 680-700 twist as a preferred technical scheme of the invention.

Based on the adjustment, the problems that the blended fabric has more silk ends and is easy to shrink are integrally improved, but with the increase of the proportion of the blended mulberry silk yarns, the inventor further discovers that a new technical defect exists in the way, namely the blended fabric is difficult to color, and the color fastness of the fabric is low after the blended fabric is colored, so that the quality of the fabric is also influenced.

In order to meet the requirements of high-quality blended fabrics on the aspects of drop feeling, glossiness, hand feeling, color fastness, low yarn end quantity, difficult shrinkage and the like, the invention optimally controls parameters in various aspects of modification process, dyeing temperature, coloring time and pH range in the proportion, the twist range and the dyeing process of blended yarns, so that the finally obtained blended fabrics have better comprehensive performance, have good performances of high strength, difficult yarn hooking, soft hand feeling, difficult color losing and the like, and simultaneously have the drop feeling and the glossiness of full real silk fabrics. Preferably, the sizing treatment is performed at a temperature ranging from 85 to 90 ℃ for 45 to 55min after each single-strand double-twist of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn, and the sizing treatment is performed at a temperature ranging from 85 to 90 ℃ for 45 to 55min after each double-twist of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn.

Through solitary high temperature design, make mulberry silk yarn and cuprammonium rayon yarn difficult for fluffing on the one hand, reduce the fracture, control the shrinkage rate unified and be in a lower level, on the other hand, through carrying out high temperature design to the yarn after the twisting, the yarn length after the plying still controls between 97% -98% of yarn length before the plying. The processing cost of the fabric is not additionally increased. The plied yarns subjected to high-temperature setting treatment also have certain influence on a subsequent dyeing process, so that the color locking capability of the yarns colored at the later stage is enhanced.

As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, in step 1, the mulberry silk yarn needs to be pretreated before single-strand double-twist, and the pretreatment specifically includes the following steps:

adjusting the pH of the treatment solution to 3-4, adding the mulberry silk raw material at room temperature, and controlling the bath ratio to be 1:25-40, performing water bath treatment for 3-5min, heating to 55-65 ℃, pre-shaping by keeping for 30-40min from the temperature rise to 55 ℃, and then softening the pre-shaped mulberry silk raw material; the treatment liquid is a mixed solution of ammonia water, acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide. The processed mulberry silk is not easy to fluff and break, and the degumming rate of the mulberry silk is kept between 20 and 25 percent. The subsequent weaving can be smoothly carried out, yarn breakage is not easy to occur, and a hole is generated.

As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the modification treatment of step 2 specifically includes the following steps: wetting the first plied yarn raw material in a modification solution at normal temperature, raising the temperature of the modification solution to 70-80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 55-60 minutes and then taking out. Through carrying out modification treatment, can change mulberry silk fiber structure, mainly act on fibrous surface, help follow-up mulberry silk fibre to change and color, lock the look. Preferably, the concentration of the modified solution is 5-10% o.w.f., and the main components of the modified solution are ammonia water, acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide. Through modification treatment, can be right mulberry silk fiber structure in the first plying yarn is handled, has further optimized mulberry silk inner structure, helps coloring and lock look among the later stage dyeing process.

The mulberry silk is treated twice, the treatment comprises pretreatment before single-strand double-twisting and modification treatment after stranding double-twisting, the internal structure of the mulberry silk is adjusted to different degrees in the two technological processes, and the dyeing and the later color locking in the dyeing process are achieved.

As a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the dyeing in step 2 specifically includes the following steps: immersing the modified first twisted yarn into a dye solution, raising the temperature to 70-80 ℃, and dyeing for 55-60 min; specifically, the pH of the dye solution is 3 to 4 when the temperature is raised to 70 ℃, and the bath ratio is 1: 25-30.

As a preferable technical scheme of the invention, the pH of the dye solution is adjusted by adopting an acetic acid solution, the concentration of the acetic acid solution is 3-5g/L, and the amount of the acetic acid solution added is 1mL of the acetic acid solution added in each 1L of the dye solution.

As a preferred technical scheme of the present invention, in step 2, the fixing agent adopted in the fixing process is a basf kefir FIX formaldehyde-free fixing agent, and the main component is a polyethyleneimine alkoxy compound. Fixing the color of the dyed first plied yarn raw material by using a color fixing agent, dissolving the color fixing agent in soft water at the concentration of 3% o.w.f. to prepare a color fixing agent solution, heating to 35-40 ℃, and keeping for 15-25 minutes; the first plied yarn after fixing the fixing agent solution with soft water at room temperature is then rinsed for 10-15 minutes. And directly drying to obtain the second plied yarn raw material. In the process of treating the plied yarns, necessary color fixing treatment is carried out to ensure that the blended fabric in the later period has uniform color and strong color locking capability, all indexes of a color fastness performance test meet the national standard and are not easy to fade, and meanwhile, the color fixing treatment can not cause the blended fabric to be hardened so as to influence the hand feeling quality of the fabric.

In the weaving process, due to the fact that the twist of the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon is changed, a cross crotch is easy to generate during weaving, and bamboo joints with alternate thicknesses are generated, so that the needle number and the density of a machine are adjusted to ensure the quality of the fabric. As a preferred technical scheme of the present invention, in the step 3, the weaving comprises the following specific steps: and (3) conveying the second plied yarn raw material treated in the step (2) to a circular machine for weaving, wherein the number of needles of the circular machine is 35-38. Further preferably, the weaving is performed by using at least one weaving method of bead, twill and crater stripe.

The preparation method of the blended fabric further comprises a finishing process, and the finishing process comprises the following specific steps: and (3) washing the fabric obtained in the step (3), adding a softening agent as an auxiliary agent, and controlling the bath ratio to be 1: 15-25, wherein the concentration of the auxiliary agent is 1-5% o.w.f.; the pH value of the solution is 6.5-7, the solution is processed for more than half an hour at 35-40 ℃, and after washing is finished, the solution is processed by a machine for shaping and is processed for 5-10min at the temperature of 140 ℃. And obtaining a finished product.

A mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric obtained by the preparation method.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

according to the preparation method of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric, disclosed by the invention, in order to improve defects such as yarn ends and yarn ends of the conventional mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric and improve the quality of the blended fabric, a novel blended fabric is designed, and the yarn density of the prepared fabric is compact, the yarn ends are fewer, the quality of the fabric is greatly improved and the blended fabric has the glossiness and the sag of full real silk by adjusting the proportion between mulberry silk yarns and cuprammonium rayon yarns and further adjusting the twist of single-strand double-twist and plying double-twist; meanwhile, high-temperature setting, modification treatment on the mulberry silk in several times and adjustment of parameters of all working procedures in the dyeing process are added in the preparation process, and the process parameters of all links are controlled to enable all the links to be closely matched, so that the finally obtained blended fabric is higher in color fastness, strong in color locking capability, not easy to fade, not hard, and good in sense organ performances such as overall quality, glossiness and drape of the fabric, and the hand feeling of the full real silk is still kept.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in detail below.

In order to make the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention more apparent, the following examples further illustrate the present invention in detail. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.

The raw materials used in this application are as follows:

mulberry silk: 1.33-2.67 white filaments of DTX;

copper ammonia wire: cuprammonium fibers developed and produced by Asahi kasei Asahi Kasei corporation, Japan;

color fixing agent: basf energy FIX formaldehyde-free fixing agent;

softening agent: a silicone softener;

example 1

A mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric comprises the following steps:

firstly, pretreating a mulberry silk raw material, and specifically comprises the following steps:

and adjusting the pH value of the treatment solution to 3-4, specifically, the treatment solution is a mixed solution of ammonia water, acetic acid and hydrogen peroxide. Adding the mulberry silk raw material at room temperature, and controlling the bath ratio to be 1:25-40, immersing the mulberry silk raw material into the treatment solution at room temperature for about 3-5min, heating to 55-65 ℃, keeping for 30-40min for pre-shaping, and softening the pre-shaped mulberry silk raw material; the processed mulberry silk is not easy to fluff and break, and the degumming rate of the mulberry silk is kept between 20 and 25 percent. The subsequent weaving can be smoothly carried out, yarn breakage is not easy to occur, and a hole is generated.

The cuprammonium rayon is prepared from cotton linters, namely cotton linters, around cotton seeds as raw materials: the unique technology is utilized to refine and dissolve the fluff part which is not used as the fiber to prepare pure regenerated fiber; in this example, the selected cuprammonium rayon, which was produced by asahi kasei asahi;

after the mulberry silk pretreatment is finished, respectively performing single-strand double twisting on the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn, specifically, performing the single-strand double twisting on the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn within the range of 680-700 twists, and after each double twisting on the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn is finished, performing sizing treatment at the temperature of 85 ℃ for 50 min. After the high-temperature setting is finished, the plying ratio of the mulberry silk yarns to the cuprammonium rayon yarns is 60-70: 30-40; in the embodiment, the yarn count of the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon is controlled, the ratio of the plied yarns is controlled to be 60:40, plying and double twisting are carried out within the twist range of 580-600 twisting, and high-temperature setting is carried out like single-strand double twisting after each plying and double twisting is finished, so that the first plied yarn raw material is obtained. Because the first folded yarn raw material is subjected to high-temperature setting treatment, the length of the folded yarn is reduced by 1-2% after the folded yarn is twisted together with the length of the single-stranded yarn in a ratio of 1000 m. The shrinkage rate of the yarns is guaranteed to be at a lower and uniform level, the length of the plied yarns is controlled to be at a relatively higher level, and the processing cost of the fabric is not additionally increased.

And after the doubling and twisting is finished, entering a dyeing process, and before dyeing the twisted yarn by using a dye, performing modification treatment, wherein the modification treatment specifically comprises the following steps: wetting the first plied yarn raw material in a modification solution at normal temperature, raising the temperature of the modification solution to 70-80 ℃, keeping the temperature for 55-60 minutes and then taking out; through carrying out modification treatment, can change mulberry silk fiber structure, mainly act on fibrous surface, help follow-up mulberry silk fibre to change and color, lock the look. Specifically, the main component of the modified solution is an environment-friendly active pigment, and the concentration of the modified solution is 5-10% o.w.f.

Transferring the modified first plied yarn raw material into a dye vat, raising the temperature to 70-80 ℃, and dyeing for 55-60 min; the pH of the dye solution is 3-4. Specifically, the pH value of the dye solution is adjusted by adopting an acetic acid solution, the concentration of the acetic acid solution is 3g/L, and the amount of the acetic acid solution added is that 1mL of the acetic acid solution is added into every 1L of the dye solution. After dyeing is finished, a color fixing process is required, wherein the color fixing agent adopted in the color fixing process is a basf energy FIX formaldehyde-free color fixing agent, and the main component of the color fixing agent is a polyethyleneimine alkoxy compound. Fixing the color of the dyed first plied yarn raw material by using a color fixing agent, dissolving the color fixing agent in soft water at the concentration of 3% o.w.f. to prepare a color fixing agent solution, and heating to about 35-40 ℃ for 15-25 minutes; the first plied yarn after fixing the fixer solution with soft water at room temperature was then rinsed for 15 minutes. And then directly drying to obtain a second plied yarn raw material.

The dyed second plied yarn raw material is woven by a high-needle high-density circular knitting machine, wherein the needle number is adjusted to 36 needles, so that the fabric with the yarn number of 250-260N/2 and the gram weight of 160-170g per square meter is obtained.

And finally, performing washing treatment on the fabric, wherein a natural fiber softening agent is added as an auxiliary agent, and the bath ratio is controlled to be 1: 15-25, wherein the concentration of the auxiliary agent is 1-5% o.w.f.; the pH value of the solution is 6.5-7, the solution is processed for more than half an hour at 35-40 ℃, and finally the solution is processed by a machine for shaping, specifically, the solution is processed for 5-10min at the temperature of 140 ℃. And obtaining a finished product.

Example 2

The manufacturing process of this example 2 was the same as that of example 1 except that the twisted composition ratio of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn was 70/30.

Example 3

The production process of this example 2 was the same as that of example 1 except that the ratio of the twisted components of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium yarn was 65/35.

Comparative example 1

Compared with the preparation method of example 1, the comparative example is only different in that the plying ratio of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn is 30/70, the plying twist range is controlled to be 540-580, and the plied yarn is easy to break to generate burrs and yarn knots due to insufficient yarn strength if the twist is further increased, so that the appearance is influenced.

The fabrics prepared in examples 1-3 were compared with comparative example 1, and the test properties were compared as follows:

table 1 is a comparison table of testing performance of blended fabrics with different ply ratios

The bursting strength test method B/T19976-;

a fuzzing and pilling test method GB/T4802.1-2008, a circular trajectory method, pilling for 600 times and pressure 780 cN;

the hand feeling test is to randomly select 50 common consumers for experience and count the obtained data results.

Through comparison between the above examples 1-3 and the comparative example 1, it can be seen that by changing the ply ratio of the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon, the ply ratio is controlled to be 60-70:30-40, and the ply twist is increased from 540 to 580, and by performing bursting strength and pilling tests on the prepared blended fabric, the fabric strength of the blended fabric with the ply ratio of 60-70:30-40 is increased by two times compared with the blended fabric with the high cuprammonium rayon ratio of the prior art 30/70. The results of the fuzzing and pilling tests show that the number of the fuzzing and pilling is greatly reduced after the plying proportion is adjusted, the fuzzing and pilling grade is above grade 4, while the fuzzing and pilling grade of the 30/70 blended fabric with the high copper ammonia yarn proportion in the prior art is lower, namely about 3. Comparing the cloth cover effects of the four blended fabrics, it can be found that the fabrics of examples 1-3 have better hand feeling, are soft and are skin-friendly; the fabric of comparative example 1 had a hard hand and had a lot of burrs.

The examples of the application further study the influence of different ply twist on the blended fabric under the same ply ratio, and further adjust the twist range on the basis that the ply ratio (S/T, namely mulberry silk/cuprammonium rayon) in example 3 is 65/35.

Comparative example 2

In this comparative example, the same plying ratio and preparation process as in example 3 were used, except that the plying twist was controlled to be 550-580 during the plying two-for-one twisting.

Comparative example 3

In this comparative example, the same plying ratio and preparation process as in example 3 were used, except that the plying twist was controlled between 600 and 620 during the plying two-for-one twisting.

The blended fabrics obtained in three groups of experiments of example 3, comparative example 2 and comparative example 3 are tested, and the performance results are shown in table 2:

table 2 is a comparison table of testing performance of blended fabrics with different ply twist

By comparing the different twist ranges of the comparative examples 2 to 3 with the example 3, it can be seen that different fabric effects can be achieved by adjusting the ratio of the mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon yarn and further adjusting the ply twist, wherein the comparative example 2 reduces the ply twist, and compared with the example 3, the fabric has burrs, and the hand feeling is not changed obviously, and the comparative example 3 improves the ply twist, and at the same time, the fabric becomes harder, and meanwhile, the inevitable burrs are further increased.

The method changes the plying proportion of the existing fabric and further adjusts the plying twist, and finds that the coloring influence on the blended fabric is large; the following experiments were conducted:

comparative example 4

The blended fabric of the comparative example was prepared in the same manner as in example 1, except that the high-temperature setting treatment was not performed after the single-strand double-twist and the double-twist of the mulberry silk yarn and the cuprammonium rayon yarn. In the dyeing process, the first plied yarn raw material is not modified, and is directly added into a dyeing solvent, and the dyeing process is performed according to the preparation method in the embodiment 1.

Comparative example 5

The preparation method of the blended fabric of the comparative example is similar to the traditional preparation method, the plying ratio of the mulberry silk yarns and the cuprammonium rayon yarns is 30/70, the plying twist range is controlled to be 540-580, the mulberry silk is not subjected to the pretreatment process, and the high-temperature setting process after each double twisting is carried out, and only the color fixing process is required to be carried out in the yarn dyeing process and after the blended fabric is finished.

The blended fabrics prepared in the example 1 and the comparative example 4 are respectively subjected to color fastness related detection:

a, pH value: GB/T7573-one 2009

B, formaldehyde content: GB/T2912.1-2009 water extraction method

C, soaping color fastness (grade): GB/T3921-2008A (1)40 DEG C

And D, color fastness to perspiration (grade): GB/T3922-2013;

water color fastness (grade): GB/T5713-;

f, wear-resistant color fastness to rubbing (grade): GB/T3920-

G light fastness (grade): GB/T8427-2008 method 3

H, light-resistant Chinese composite color fastness (level): GB/T14576-

Table 3 is a table of comparative data of properties such as color fastness and the like of whether high-temperature setting is performed or not

According to the table, the fabric which is shaped at high temperature, twisted and adjusted in component proportion has direct influence on the color fastness to soaping, the color fastness to light and the color fastness to water.

The blended fabrics prepared in the example 1 and the comparative example 4 are respectively subjected to relevant detection of properties such as pilling effect and cloth cover effect, and the performance is shown in 4:

table 4 is a table comparing the pilling note and the cloth cover effect of example 1 and comparative example 4, respectively

As can be seen from the above tables 3 and 4, the blended fabric of comparative example 4 shows slight burrs and influences on the fastness to soaping, light, water and color, and the like, after the processes of high-temperature setting, modification treatment and the like are saved.

The inventors performed the following table 5 on the data of the post-wash appearances of example 1, comparative example 1 and comparative example 6:

table 5 shows the appearance data of example 1 and comparative examples 1 and 6 after washing

Judgment of inspection item judgment basis

Washing size change rate GB/T22849-

After washing, the appearance GB/T22849-

Rate of change of dry cleaning size

Appearance after dry cleaning

Compared with the comparative example 6, the blended fabric of the comparative example 6 has the advantages that the visual performance discrimination in all aspects of the fabric is extremely high, the overall density of the blended fabric is low, and defects such as surface yarn ends are more; the performances of the aspects of luster, feeling of dropping and the like are inferior to those of the embodiment 1, and in the embodiment 1 of the invention, the performances of the obtained blended fabric in all aspects are better by integrating a plurality of improvements in details and the coordination among the processes.

Furthermore, the inventor finds that the cross crotch is easy to generate during weaving due to the fact that the twisting degree of the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon is changed, thick and thin bamboo joints are generated, and therefore the number of needles and the density of the machine are adjusted to guarantee the quality of the fabric. The yarn number of the circular machine is adjusted, and the pilling test is carried out on the blended fabric obtained under different needle numbers; the results are shown in table 6 below:

table 6 is the experimental comparison table of different needle numbers

Diameter (inch)	Number of needles (needle)	Total needle count (needle)	Fabric gram weight (gram per square meter)	Pilling (grade)
					34	30	3192	170-175	4
34	32	3408	165-175	4
					34	36	3840	160-170	4-5

The pilling test refers to GB/T4802.1-2008, circular locus method, pilling for 600 times and pressure 780cN

To summarize: the invention provides an innovative preparation method of mulberry silk and cuprammonium rayon blended fabric, which improves the strength of the twisted yarns by adjusting the twisting proportion and the twisting degree of the mulberry silk and the cuprammonium rayon, so that the prepared blended fabric is not easy to have defects such as yarn ends, silk threads and the like, and the quality of the blended fabric is poor; furthermore, in order to ensure the problems of difficult coloring, color fastness and the like caused by the proportion of yarn raw materials, twist degree and the like, the invention ensures that the fiber cohesion of the yarn is tighter and the color locking is more favorable by carrying out high-temperature setting treatment in the processes of single-strand double-twist and plying double-twist each time, adopts twice modification treatment on the mulberry silk yarn, then discharges the dye for heating and dyeing, adopts a high-needle high-density import circular knitting machine for weaving, and adopts special process and auxiliary agent for finishing, so that the finally obtained product presents the hand feeling, the draping feeling and the texture of 100 percent of real silk, and meanwhile, the strength of the fabric is also improved, the fuzzing resistance and the yarn hooking resistance of the fabric are improved, and the grade and the additional value of the fabric are improved.

The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents and improvements made within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included within the scope of the present invention.