阅读说明：本技术 一种保暖面料及其制备方法 (Thermal fabric and preparation method thereof ) 是由 许勇 丁巧英 周胜毅 华玉龙 温欣婷 于 2021-01-06 设计创作，主要内容包括：本发明公开了一种保暖面料。该保暖面料是通过主要由羊毛和中空涤纶组成的纤维混纺制成。与现有毛涤织物相比,本发明的产品面料丰厚饱满,比克重接近的其它混纺面料有更优的蓬松性和弹性、风格轻松自然,更加轻质保暖,有全毛织物的蓬松手感,实现相似风格织物的轻量化。(The invention discloses a thermal fabric. The warm-keeping fabric is made by blending fibers mainly composed of wool and hollow polyester. Compared with the existing wool-polyester fabric, the product fabric is thick and full, has better fluffiness and elasticity, is light and natural in style, is lighter and warm, has fluffy hand feeling of full-wool fabric, and realizes light weight of fabric with similar style compared with other blended fabrics with similar gram weight.)

1. A thermal fabric is characterized in that: the warm-keeping fabric is made by blending fibers mainly composed of wool and hollow polyester.

2. The thermal fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the hollow rate of the hollow terylene is more than 20 percent.

3. The thermal fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: the hollow rate of the hollow polyester is 30%.

4. The thermal fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the wool consumption is 30-70 wt%, and the hollow polyester consumption is 70-30 wt%.

5. The thermal fabric according to claim 1 or 4, characterized in that: the fiber also comprises 1-3 wt% of spandex.

6. The thermal fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the ratio of the gram weight to the heat preservation rate of the warm-keeping fabric is 10: 1-15: 1g/m²:％。

7. The method for preparing the thermal fabric of claim 1, which sequentially comprises the following steps: wool making, carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling, doubling, two-for-one twisting, warping, drafting, denting, weaving and after finishing.

8. The method of claim 7, wherein: the after-finishing comprises boiling, washing and steaming in sequence, wherein the boiling temperature is 110 ℃, and the time is 2 min; the washing speed is more than 150m/min, the wind speed is more than 200m/min, and the washing time is 20 min; the steaming time is 7 min.

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the field of textiles, and particularly relates to a lightweight thermal fabric and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The wool-polyester fabric is solid and durable, easy to manage and low in material cost, and is an indispensable fabric in spring, summer and autumn and winter, whether used as trousers or upper clothes.

However, the common wool-polyester fabric has many disadvantages that the fabric is stiff and smooth and is easy to be stiff, and particularly, when the fabric is used for a thick fabric in autumn and winter, the gram weight of the fabric is greatly increased, but the rich thickness of the fabric is difficult to be improved, the fluffy feeling is difficult to be shown, and the wear resistance of the fabric is good but the comfortable and warm feeling of a wearer cannot be provided.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects of the existing wool-polyester fabric and provide a light-weight thermal fabric.

In order to achieve the purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:

a warm-keeping fabric is made by blending fibers mainly composed of wool and hollow polyester.

Preferably, the hollow rate of the hollow terylene is more than 20%.

More preferably, the hollow polyester has a hollow rate of 30%.

Preferably, the wool is used in an amount of 30-70 wt%, and the hollow polyester is used in an amount of 70-30 wt%.

Preferably, the fiber further comprises spandex in an amount of 1-3 wt%.

Preferably, the ratio of the gram weight to the heat preservation rate of the warm-keeping fabric is 10: 1-15: 1g/m²:％。

The preparation method of the warm keeping fabric sequentially comprises the following steps: wool making, carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling, doubling, two-for-one twisting, warping, drafting, denting, weaving and after finishing.

Preferably, the after-finishing comprises boiling, washing and steaming in sequence, wherein the boiling temperature is 110 ℃, and the time is 2 min; the washing speed is more than 150m/min, the wind speed is more than 200m/min, and the washing time is 20 min; the steaming time is 7 min.

Has the advantages that:

1. compared with the existing wool-polyester fabric, the product of the invention is lighter and warm, and has fluffy hand feeling of full-wool fabric.

2. Compared with the common wool polyester yarns with the same yarn count and the same proportion, the invention has larger yarn diameter and smaller volume weight, can achieve the same fabric tightness with the same yarn count and smaller warp and weft density during interweaving, and can also show the rich thickness and the texture of the common wool polyester yarn products with lower yarn count by using higher yarn count, namely realizing the lightweight of the fabrics with similar styles.

3. The blended fabric is thick and full, has better fluffiness and elasticity than other blended fabrics with similar gram weights, and is light and natural in style.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a hollow polyester fiber.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the following drawings and examples.

The hollow polyester adopted by the invention is selected from AIRLET LIGHT of Dongli company, the length is 38mm, the hollow rate is 30 percent, and the cross section is shown in figure 1.

Example 1

The light-weight heat-preservation tweed is produced by adopting a semi-worsted process, and the process flow is as follows:

(1) disperse dyeing: dyeing, dehydrating and drying;

(2) spinning: wool blending, carding, drawing, roving, spinning, spooling, doubling and double twisting;

(3) weaving part: warping, drafting, denting and weaving;

(4) and (3) after finishing: continuous boiling, washing and shrinking combination, drying, intermediate detection, cooking and trimming, shearing, softening, high-temperature shaping, decating and finishing.

The process specifications are as follows in table 1:

TABLE 1

The common wool-polyester blended tweed is produced by the same process according to the same color, and the difference between the production processes of the light-weight heat-preservation tweed and the common wool-polyester blended tweed is different from the final style and performance of the finished product. The relevant technical points in the test process are as follows:

firstly, dyeing is carried out by adopting high-temperature high-pressure disperse dye, and under the same dyeing process, the product 395058 of AIRLET LIGHT has lower color yield and unstable color, and the analysis reason is the influence of fiber cavities on the color. In order to enable the fiber to reach a sufficient dye-uptake, control the dye to slowly diffuse in the fiber and not excessively and violently permeate into an internal cavity, the temperature is slowly increased from 50 ℃ to 130 ℃ during dyeing, the temperature-increasing time is 60min, the color-fixing and heat-preserving time is 60min, the temperature is respectively prolonged by 10min compared with 395061, the pH value of a dye bath is controlled to be 5-6 weak acidity, and the pressure is 2.2kg/cm²The dyeing is uniform, the temperature is slowly reduced after dyeing, and the washing time is prolonged to clean the floating color.

Secondly, the stretching damage and the extrusion deformation of the fiber are reduced as much as possible during spinning, the better rigidity and the elasticity of the yarn are kept, the wool is mixed uniformly, a proper amount of wool oil and antistatic agent are added, the storage time is ensured, the speed is slowed down during carding, little or no water is added to reduce wool particles, the space distance can be increased properly during drawing, the single-channel drafting multiple is reduced, and the twist degree of spun yarn spinning is reduced properly.

Thirdly, weaving process: compared with the common wool polyester yarn, the blended yarn has smaller volume weight (g/cm) due to the high hollow ratio of AIRLET LIGHT fiber³) I.e., yarns of the same count, the yarn blended with AIRLET LIGHT had a larger yarn diameter and the yarn was sampled and tested, with the average of 5 tests for a hectometer yarn shown in table 2. If the tightness of the warp and weft of the fabric is kept unchanged during weaving, the density of the warp and weft of the fabric is properly reduced, the specification adjustment comprehensively considers the fabric style and the proportion of AIRLET LIGHT in the yarns, the adjustment can be estimated in advance through calculation, and the like is required to be carried out according to the hand feeling of grey cloth during productionTimely adjustment is carried out to ensure that the yarns have enough space to expand in the after-treatment and the fabric is relaxed and shrunk.

TABLE 2

Number of article	Design yarn count	Actually measured yarn count	Yarn levelness CV percent	Diameter (mm)
					Light-weight heat-preservation tweed 395058	36S/2	36.4S/2	12.42	0.454
Common wool/polyester tweed 395061	36S/2	36.2S/2	12.77	0.421

And fourthly, in the post-processing, the lightweight heat-insulating tweed is subjected to tweeting by using an MAT continuous tweezer imported from Italy, the cloth feeding is subjected to automatic continuous operation during tweeting, the processing quality stability is good, low-tension (0.5bar) non-pressure tweeting is realized, the tweeting temperature is 110 ℃, the tweeting time is 2min, the tweeting effect is achieved, the fluffy and loose hand feeling of the fabric is ensured, and the defects that the press roll pressure is high when the traditional single-groove tweeting machine and the double-groove tweeting machine are adopted for tweeting, and the fabric feels flat after tweeting and is not fluffy and loose enough are overcome.

The fabric is processed by adopting an MAT washing and shrinking combination machine imported from Italy, the washing speed reaches more than 150m/min, the wind speed reaches more than 200m/min, the pressure of a light-felting pressing plate is 1.0bar, the time is 20min, the washing efficiency is greatly improved, the washing effect is sufficient, the fabric is thick and fluffy, slight fluff is generated among fabric yarns, the air permeability of the fabric is ensured while the heat retention property of the fabric is effectively improved, and the defects that the traditional rope-shaped mud suction machine is low in washing speed (50m/min), long in washing time (3 hours), poor in displacement and easy to generate creases during washing the fabric are overcome.

The variety 395058 of AIRLET LIGHT is more fluffy and fluffy, and the color changes slightly to light and bright directions, while the common wool polyester tweed 395061 has more shrinkage, and the fabric is firmer and has slightly darker color. To completely remove AIRLET LIGHT any residual color bloom in the fiber cavity, the temperature of the tweed was raised to 50 ℃. Because the softening agent has affinity to disperse dyes, the fabric is washed with light water once after being softened, so that the fabric is further cleaned, and the fabric is more elastic and fluffy.

The Italian import KD can steamer is adopted for processing, the parameters such as cloth feeding tension, pressure of a press roller, a steam circulation mode and the like are various, and the parameters are automatically controlled by a computer program, so that the stability of the quality of the decating is good. When the lightweight heat-preservation tweed is used for decating, the lower cloth feeding tension (0.1-1.0bar) and the lower compression roller pressure (0.3-1.8bar) are selected, the special steam circulation mode from inside to outside is selected, and the decating time (7min) is selected, so that the fluffy and loose fabric hand feeling is obtained while the decating effect is ensured, and the defects that the cloth feeding tension and the compression roller pressure of the traditional pot decating machine are high, the steam circulation mode is single during decating, the decating parameters need manual operation, the quality stability is poor, and the fabric is relatively flat after decating and is not fluffy and loose enough are overcome.

Analyzing the finished tweed product: the finished fabric produced by the experiment is tested, all indexes of the test reach the national standard, and the items with larger difference between the indexes are shown in the table 3:

TABLE 3 Main indices of the finished product part

The fabric appearance style and test results can be analyzed to obtain that the wool and AIRLET LIGHT blended light-weight heat-insulating tweed is plump, has a loose structure, good elasticity, light gram weight, good strength, good heat-insulating property and good pilling resistance.

The quality requirements of the light-weight heat-preservation tweed are implemented according to the standards of GB/T22863-2009 semi-worsted woolen fabric, GB/T11048-2008 determination of thermal resistance and wet resistance of textile under the steady-state condition of physiological comfort, and GB/T3820-1997 determination of thicknesses of textiles and textile products. The internal quality is detected by the national textile product quality supervision and inspection center (Jiangyin), and all test indexes meet the first-class requirements specified in the GB/T22863-2009 semi-worsted woolen fabric standard.

Example 2

Different production processes are used for achieving the same gram weight and similar fabric body bones, and the difference of the processes and the difference of the final style performance are compared.

Calculated by the same cross-sectional area, the diameter of the AIRLET LIGHT fiber is 1.2 times of that of the common terylene with the same denier, the diameter of the spun yarn is larger, and the raw material 66 is used^SAustralian wool 30%/2.5D terylene 70% spinning Nm40^SThe theoretical value is calculated by taking/1 as an example, the cross section of the yarn comprises about 16 wool fibers and 63 polyester fibers, and the fiber diameter is 66^SAustralian wool: 21.01um, 2.5D ordinary terylene: 15.98um, AIRLET LIGHT fiber: 19.1um, calculated by neglecting the gaps between the fibers, the yarn diameter of the yarn blended by the wool and the common polyester fiber is 0.152mm, and the yarn diameter of the yarn blended by the wool and the AIRLET LIGHT fiber is 0.173mm which is 1.14 times of the yarn blended by the common wool and polyester. The estimated value E of the tightness factor of the fabric is proportional to the diameter of the yarn, if it is common in productionIf the tightness factor is estimated, then a fabric woven with yarns having the same count and a larger diameter can be made with a smaller estimate of the tightness factor to achieve the same actual tightness, i.e., the tightness factor value can be reduced by reducing the thread count and pick count.

Trial production of 400g/m²The left and right thick and stiff fabric with a body bone adopts 2/2 double-layer tissues, based on the theoretical analysis, in order to enable the fabric to reach similar tightness, the estimated tightness coefficient value of the wool and AIRLET LIGHT fiber blended fabric is relatively reduced, if the same gram weight is expected to be achieved, the yarn count needs to be reduced, and finally the relevant process specifications of the semi-worsted process are formulated as shown in the table 4:

TABLE 4

And testing the experimental finished fabric, wherein all indexes of the test reach the national standard. The main indexes are shown in table 5:

TABLE 5 Main indices of the finished product part

According to the analysis of a finished product, the fabric using AIRLET LIGHT fibers is light in weight, good in elasticity and plump, but the touch feeling of the woolen surface is slightly rough, the fabric is improved after finishing, softening and shaping, and the smooth and glutinous feeling of the fabric is improved after grey cloth shaping.

Finally, it should be noted that: although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that changes may be made in the embodiments and/or equivalents thereof without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Any modification, equivalent replacement, or improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.